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Marseille, France is Reborn

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Marseille Harbor

Photo by Leah Larkin

Marseille?  Who would want to visit this city? Crime, drugs, violence, the Mafia – the city’s reputation has been shrouded by for years.  The 1970’s movie, The French Connection, focusing on the city’s thriving drug trade, didn’t help.   But, much of the drug trade has moved on to Eastern Europe.  And, fortunately policing and public security have improved.

My husband and I live in the Luberon hills, about 1 ½ hours north of Marseille.  I’ve been to France’s second largest city numerous times and never encountered any problems. We’ve always enjoyed visiting this bustling, vibrant coastal city.  And now – more than ever. The New York Times has rated Marseille second in its list of “46 places to visit in 2013.” Billions of Euros have been spent on innovative new construction, as well as renovating and repainting many of the old structures to ready Marseille for its honor as European Capital of Culture this year, when there is a wealth of activities on the agenda.

Soak in the city’s captivating seaside ambience at the Vieux Port, the old port which is the heart of this city that was founded by the Greeks six centuries before Christ. Every morning fishermen unload their catch at the tip of the port, the Quai des Belges, for the fish market where locals survey the specimens and tourists take photos.  “Soles vivantes,” fish still flapping in a shallow pool of water, were a hot item recently, no doubt because it was the sole season as we later learned.  The 17th century Hotel de Ville, the majestic, centuries-old home of the city government, is on the right side of the quay facing the water.

17th Century Hotel De Ville in Vieux Port

Photo by Leah Larkin

New at the Vieux Port is Norman Foster’s Ombrière, a giant mirror hanging above the repaved waterfront. Slender columns hold a thin sheet of polished steel aloft.  Reflected are all those passing underneath, from gnarled fishermen to strolling pedestrians

Nearby is Pavilion M, a temporary multi-level structure of wood and glass erected for Marseille 2013 in the Place Bargemon.  We enjoyed its exhibit on the city and its people. On an upper floor you can visit the tourist office for information on the city and special events this year.  Tickets for events are also on sale here.

Pavilion M in the Place Bargemon

Photo by Leah Larkin

Wandering along the narrow, cobbled alleys of Le Panier is always fascinating. Steep steps from the Vieux Port climb the hills of this district, the oldest part of the city reminiscent of ancient Mediterranean cities like Naples and Lisbon. The Place des Moulins was once home to 15 windmills where flour was milled.  The name panier (basket) is thought to come from the baskets used to carry bread. Long neglected and run down, Le Panier is on the move with new boutiques and eateries, especially on Rue du Petit-Puits where I discovered delightful, whimsical ceramics at Serge Mautarlier, number 7.

Narrow steps in Le Panier

Photo by Leah Larkin

Le Panier’s pièce de résistance is the Vielle Charité, a striking architectural masterpiece that was a home for the city’s poor in the 17th century when Louis XIV decided poor folks on the streets were bad news. It housed up to 1,000 needy residents.  The noted architect Le Corbusier recognized its beauty in the 1950s which led to renovation. The complex of columned arcades includes a Baroque domed chapel.  Walk along the upper gallery with your camera ready, as I did, for some interesting shots of the courtyard below.

Baroque chapel at the Veille Charité

Photo by Leah Larkin

After all that trekking up and down and around Le Panier, treat yourself to a relaxing boat ride to Chateau d’IfBoats from the Vieux Port cross the waters to this legendary castle, France’s Alcatraz. King Francois I had it built in the 16th century as a fort outside the harbor.  It never saw battle, but became a prison. Its most illustrious inmate was Edmond Dantès whom Alexandre Dumas immortalized in The Count of Monte Cristo.

Shopping? I’m a market junkie, and Marseille is a gold mine with its numerous morning markets offering everything from clothing to spices, fruits and vegetables to hardware. The fish market at the Vieux Port is perhaps the most colorful, but you are probably not going to buy a smelly fish. Check out the merchandise at the other markets which reflects the diversity of the city’s population including 200,000 Italians, 150,000 Corsicans, and 400,000 Muslims (mostly from Algeria).  Arab specialties are found at the Marché les Noailles on side streets to the right at the end of Canebière, the city’s main thoroughfare, just a few hundred meters from the Vieux Port, every morning except Sunday. Nearby is the Marché des Capucins for fruit and vegetables, also daily except Sunday. Everything imaginable is for sale at the huge Marché du Prado along this main artery of the city, Tuesday through Saturday.

Facades in Le Panier

Photo by Leah Larkin

For classier purchases, head to rue Saint-Ferréol, rue de Rome and rue Paradis. Rue Sainte is the place to seek out local fashion labels.

If Marseille has a city symbol, it’s Notre Dame de la Garde, a celebrated church towering over the sprawling city.  A golden statue of the Bonne Mère tops this Romanesque-Byzantine basilica at the highest point of the city, 500 feet above the harbor, majestically watching over Marseille’s 860,000 inhabitants.

Harbor View with Notre Dame de la Garde

Photo by Leah Larkin

The Marseille street of fame is La Canebière, a grand boulevard which leads from the Vieux Port.  A bit shabby, the Champs Élysée it is not, although it was modeled after the Parisian avenue.  Some of the buildings are worth admiring, such as the one with caryatides housing the store C&A at number 53.

Food is foremost for me when visiting Marseille.  We especially like to savor treats from the sea for which this port city is famous.  Marseille is the capital of bouillabaisse, the legendary fisherman’s soup. It’s said to taste better there than anywhere else because of the variety and freshness of ingredients – several kinds of fish.  It’s a hearty meal beginning with the fish broth served with aioli, garlic mayonnaise, and rouille, aioli with cayenne pepper.  Smear the mayos on toast rounds which you submerge in the soup.  Then comes a huge platter of the fish and potatoes.  It’s a pricey dish, between 53 and 60 Euros per person at these restaurants all known for authentic bouillabaisse: Le Rhul, chez Michel, Le Miramar and chez Fonfon. A less expensive but authentic version can be ordered ahead at Chez Madie Les Galinettes at the Vieux Port.  Other restaurants along the Vieux Port also offer bouillabaisse for less, but it may not be the genuine version.

Years ago we treated ourselves to bouillabaisse at chez Fonfon.  The setting in a tiny inlet overlooking the sea was as memorable as the cuisine.

On a recent visit we were charmed with La Bôite à Sardine, a boisterous, small eatery, all decked out with souvenirs of the sea:  shells and stuffed fish in nets dangling from the ceiling, a bench with bold orange life vests as cushions around a big corner table, a wall plastered with small sardine cans.

Proprietor Fabian sat us at a table with two friendly women, Jeanne Feutren, 68, and her mother, Claire Gilormini, 93, who live nearby. “We come here because the fish is fresh.  It’s delivered every morning. That’s rare.  We know,” said Feutren, who, like her mother, was born in Marseille, is a retired English teacher, and, like most natives, a diehard fan of this fascinating city, the oldest in France.

The fish market at the Quai des Belges

Photo by Leah Larkin

They, and many others, began their meal with platters of oysters. I asked for Fabian’s recommendations, and he suggested we split an order of calamari, then move on to sole for the main course.  “It’s the season for sole,” he explained.  “They are full of eggs.  The taste is the best.”   The squid were in a tasty sauce with a side dish of panisse, a local specialty made with chickpea flour.  The sole, lightly fried, was exquisite. Fabian made sure we did not miss the cheeks, the minute and delicate portion of flesh under the fish’s eyes.

“I love Marseille.  It’s so cosmopolitan,” said Feutren. “You can meet the whole world here.  We have the sea, the sand, hills, the calanques (dramatic coastline cliffs).  People are so exuberant.”  Her mother interjected.  “It’s a wonderful town.  We have sun year round.  It’s January, but look at the weather.” (It was glorious. Marseille has 300 days of sunshine, the highest number of sunny days in France.)

Marseille has much to enjoy, and it’s no longer the den of iniquity as it once was. But, it has its problems – high rate of youth unemployment, corruption…  And, as in any big city, caution is advised.  Guard your purse.  Don’t wear flashy, expensive jewelry. But, do visit and marvel at the new Marseille.

More at www.marseille-tourisme.com

The country code for France is 33.

Where to stay:

Hôtel Escale Oceania Marseille Vieux Port – The location does not get any better than this, just adjacent to the Vieux Port. The small (45 rooms) newly renovated hotel does not offer luxury, but it does have all you need, including free Internet access. Ask for a superior room with a balcony for superb views of the Vieux Port and Notre Dame de la Garde. 5 La Canebière, 04 91 90 61 61 www.oceaniahotels.com/hotel-escale-oceania-marseille

InterContinental Marseille – This five-star hotel just opened in a renovated historic monument behind the Hotel de Ville and no more than a block from the Vieux Port at the edge of Le Panier. It has all the amenities of a luxury establishment:  gourmet restaurant, covered pool, spa, plus a lovely terrace for relaxing and enjoying a view of the Vieux Port.  1 Place Daviel, 04 13 42 42 42.  www.intercontinental.com/marseille

Casa Honoré – For those seeking something small and intimate, this casa (mini hotel with just four rooms) is the address.  The rooms (large and luxurious) are around an inner courtyard with a pool.  The hideaway is in the heart of the city in the St. Victor neighborhood close to the Vieux Port. 123 rue Sainte, 04 96 11 01 62  www.casahonore.com

 

Where to eat:

La Bôite à Sardine – Fish restaurant as described in article, 7 Boulevard de la libération, 04 91 50 95 95,  www.laboiteasardine.com

Le Café des Epices – Gastronomic brasserie near the Vieux Port, a tiny but bustling place with innovative cuisine.  There is a terrace in front of the restaurant for outdoor dining. Many of the customers are regulars who greet the talented chef with the obligatory air kiss on each cheek. 4 Rue du Lacydon, 04 91 91 22 69.

Pizzeria Jeannot – Much more than a pizzeria, this large restaurant offers all manner of seafood and grilled meats, in addition to a variety of pizzas.  The location, tucked in a tiny fishing port just outside the heart of the city, is a delight. 129 Vallon des Auffes, 04 91 52 11 28. www.pizzeriachezjeannot.net

Chez Fonfon – If it’s authentic bouillabaisse you seek, try this well-known restaurant located almost next door to Pizzeria Jeannot, but with a classy ambience on the second floor of a building with lovely views of the sea and the mini harbor full of boats. 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, 04 91 52 14 38, www.chez-fonfon.com

 

What to See & Do:

 Calanques/BeachesSightseeing boats from the Vieux Port opposite the Hotel de Ville offer coastal tours to admire the stunning cliffs and deep fiord-like inlets between Marseille and Cassis. A two hour trip costs 22 Euros. Boats run daily from April through October.  Details at www.visite-des-calanques.com

Boats between Marseilles and Cassis

Photo by Leah Larkin

Marseille has 16 beaches along its 57 kilometers of coastline.  The Plage des Catalans offers golden sand, while soft gravel covers the Plage du Prado.  Both are crowded in summer.

 

New Attractions:  Villa Méditerranée and Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (MUCEM).  Continue down the waterfront from the Vieux Port to an abandoned pier (J4) that is now all spiffed up and the site of avant-garde architecture. The Villa Méditerranée looks much like a supersized diving board with a vast exhibition hall jutting towards the sea and suspended above a pool of water.  It will host exhibitions, but it is primarily a place to provide contact for all Mediterranean countries with the focus on cultural and artistic exchanges.  There is no charge to enter and wander around, although there is a charge for exhibitions.

President Francois Hollande will inaugurate MUCEM on June 4.  Doors open to the public on June 7.  This striking structure, a squat glass building shielded from the harsh Mediterranean sun by a dark concrete filigree veil, echoes the architecture of North Africa.  Exhibits from national museums will illustrate the theme of Mediterranean civilization.

The J4 area and the adjacent old Fort St. Jean are linked by a 130-meter walkway overlooking a dock. You can stroll in the public Mediterranean garden suspended on the heights of the Fort and lap up the stunning panoramic views over the sea and city.

 

New Major Cathedral

The Cathedral overlooking the docks

Photo by Leah Larkin

After visiting the above, continue to the city’s cathedral – you’ll see it ahead just adjacent to the docks.  There is much construction in the area now, but the city’s “new” cathedral, consecrated in 1896, merits a visit.  Statues of Christ and the apostles decorate the façade, while more beautiful statues are found inside.


The Route du Vin, Alsace, France

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For many years my husband and I lived in the Stuttgart area of Germany – less than two hours from the French border and Alsace. Whenever we had the chance, we’d hop in the car and head in that direction—for a day, a weekend, or even longer. We loved the food, the scenery, the ambience —and the wine. We’d often stop for a degustation (tasting). Many wineries display degustation signs, beckoning you to stop for a sip or more.

Mittelbergheim

Small Town in the Alsace Countryside. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Alsace is an ideal place to mix travel with wine tasting. The Alsace Wine Route extends for 105 miles from Marlenheim in the north near Strasbourg to Thann in the south, almost at the Swiss border. It twists through a rolling landscape of vineyards stretched along the foothills of the Vosges Mountains, from one quaint and charming village to another. Castles perch on top many a mountain. You could tour the area in a day, but that would be a pity. Better to drive through the region at a leisurely pace and linger.

Domaine Pfister Paysage 2

The Alsace Countryside. Photo: Domaine Pfister.

In warm weather, tasting tables are often set up in the pretty courtyards of half-timbered vintner houses. Wooden wine barrels, old wine presses, and hanging geraniums decorate the courtyards and create the perfect tasting atmosphere. Keep in mind that tasters are expected to buy at least a few bottles.

Domaine Pfister Courtyard

Streets Strewn with Spring Flower. Photo: Domaine Pfister

One of our favorite stops was the town of Mittelbergheim at the family winery, Domaine Armand Gilg. Nelly Gilg told us that 20 years ago or more there were many Alsatian vintners producing mediocre wines but that global warming has made it easier for everyone to produce quality wines. “Grapes look for sun and warmth. They ripen earlier now. We’ve gained a month.” She explained that the vines now begin to flower in early June with harvest normally 100 days later, meaning that grapes are usually ready for picking in mid-September. “In my grandfather’s day, the vines didn’t flower until late June and harvest was in October.” Alsace wines are made primarily from aromatic grape varieties and are mainly white, both dry and sweet, although the majority is dry.

Gilg Maison

Domaine GILG Winery. Photo: Domaine Gilg

Another one of our favorite wineries is Louis Sipp in the charming town of Ribeauvillé. “Our wines are different than the other white wines of France, such as Burgundy and Bordeaux,” explains Simone Sipp who runs the winery with her husband Louis. “Our grape varieties are fresher and fruitier and we make our wine in a different way. Our grapes are all cultivated by hand. Very little wine in Alsace is aged in oak.” Since 2005, all the Sipp wines are organic, she said.

Wine Still

Sipp Wine. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Alsatian wines are generally named after the grape variety from which they are produced, the main ones being Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Gewürztraminer. The dry Rieslings are some of the most noted in the world and Gewürztraminer, also renowned, is characterized as “intense, complex and offering an explosion of exotic fruits and spices.” It’s more expensive than most of the others because the grapes are tiny and fragile and yield less juice. Edelzwicker is another Alsatian blend made from several varieties. The Alsatian sparkling wine is Crémant d’Alsace, produced using the Champagne wine-making method and often from several grape varieties.

GILG Zotzenberg Grand Cru

Vineyards in the Alsace Countryside. Photo: Domaine Gilg

For historical reasons, Alsatian wines have a strong German influence. During the past 100 years, Alsace went from France to Germany, back to France, back to Germany, and finally to France again. Some say the region has a German character with a French soul. Its two most important grapes, Riesling and Gewürtztraminer, are German. The Pinot Noir grape produces the red wine of the region which is pale in color and usually classified as rosé. “Pinot Noir is becoming more important in Alsace thanks to improved growing methods and production techniques,” said Melanie Pfister who took over running the family wine estate, Domaine Pfister in Dahlenheim. The 32-year-old vintner said more and more women are now involved in Alsatian wine production.

Domaine Pfister Paysage

Alsace Vineyards. Photo: Domaine Pfister.

The climate and soil in Alsace are ideal for producing fine wines. To the east beyond the RhineRiver the massive Black Forest protects its towns and vineyards from bleak east winds.  To the west the Vosges Mountains provide a barrier to the Atlantic storms which sweep across northern France. Along with Champagne, it’s the most northerly wine-producing region in France and is one of the country’s sunniest wine regions with a warm, dry, semi-continental climate. Its vineyards are situated on the sub-Vosgian foothills at an altitude between 200 and 400 meters (660 – 1,320 feet) taking advantage of maximum sun exposure.

Cave Gilg

Wine Aging in Oak Barrels. Photo: Gilg Wines.

The region has a complicated geological history giving it a variety of soils. At Turckheim and Wintzenheim, for example, there are granite terraces side by side with calcareous strips.  At Riquewihr, sandstone and schist lie next to limestone. Growers carefully match each wine variety to the parcel of land whose soil is best suited to it. Wines are labeled Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (certificate of origin) or Alsace Grand Cru Contrôlée. The latter is used to designate a wine from a specific vineyard site with lower than average yields and strict vineyard cultivation rules. There is a third label for the sparkling wine: Crémant d’Alsace Contrôlée.

GILG Cave à bouteilles

Gilg Wines Cooling Wine Bottles. Photo: Gilg Wines.

The wines, which are bottled in elongated green bottles, should be served cool but not chilled (46-50 degrees F.) and shouldn’t be stored in the refrigerator as this could spoil the bouquet. They are best drunk young, from six months to five years, and are served in Alsace in special glasses – tulip shaped with a rounded bowl and long, colored stem (usually green). Sipp pointed out that a good quality wine can rest for three to four years, giving it time to develop.

Alsatian wines marry well with food and can enhance red or white meat, as well as fish and seafood. Muscat is a perfect aperitif. Gewürztraminer is recommended as an accompaniment to foie gras, as well as ethnic dishes such as Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese and Mexican.  Riesling, a “gastronomic wine par excellence,” is ideal with fish, shellfish, seafood, white meat, and that Alsatian specialty, choucroute (sauerkraut).

Domaine Pfister Caveau

Tasting Room. Photo: Domaine Pfister.

A drive along the wine route can be enriched with a stop for a hike in the vineyards. Signposted trails plunge deep into the vine-covered slopes, offering wonderful photo opps, as well as the opportunity to see vine cultivation up close. There are 26 different trails in the region, and each has informative signs explaining the work of the winegrower and the character of each grape variety.

Alsace View

Villages Surrounded by Vineyards. Photo: Leah Larkin. 

From April to October, many winegrowing villages have festivals and wine fairs.

“Where there is wine there is joie de vivre. Wine generates happiness and conviviality.”  says vintner Jean Sipp, a cousin of Simone Sipp who also has a winery in the town of Ribeauvillé. We found plenty of joie de vivre, not to mention delicious wines, along the Route du Vin.

www.vinsalsace.com

*For more information on travel in France, there’s no better tool than a DK Eyewitness Travel Guide

The area code for France is 33 

Where to Drink the Wines:

Domaine Pfister- The Pfister family has been established wine makers for century in the Alsace region. This vineyard offers tastings in their exclusive tasting room from 9-12 and 2-6:30 Monday-Saturday. 53 rue principale, Dahlenhiem; 33 (0) 3 88 50 66 32 www.domaine-pfister.com

Domaine Armand Gilg – Visitors are welcome to a tasting and tour of the grounds. 2 rue Rotland, Mittelbergheim. This vineyard is associated with the hotel by the same name; 33 (0) 3 88 08 92 76; www.domaine-gilg.com

Louis Sipp- This vineyard dates back to the First World War but only recently began practicing organic farming. Tasting are offered. 5 Grand Rue, Ribeauvillé ; 33 (0) 3 89 73 60 01 ; www.sipp.com

 

Where to Stay:

Domaine Jean Sipp- This hotel and wine vineyard is located in a former seignorial residence dating from 1416. 60 rue de la Fraternité, Ribeauvillé ; 33 (0) 3  89 73 60 02 ; http://www.jean-sipp.com/en/

Domaine du Neufeld, OberhaslachOur favorite place to stay, a “ferme auberge,” a horse farm in the Vosges foothills just 30 minutes from Strasbourg.  Simple but comfortable and tastefully decorated rooms, some with shared bath facilities. Evening meals are jolly events at a large table with other guests.  A delightful, warm and welcoming address with plenty of joie de vivre. Relais Equestre, Oberhaslach 67280; 33 03 88 50 91 48; www.leneufeld.fr

Hotel de la Tour – Located in the heart of Ribeauville, this hotel is a great place to stay while seeing the many sights of the area. 1 rue de la Mairie, Ribeauville 68150; 33 03 89 73 72 73; www.hotel-la-tour.com

Hotel Le Menestrel – Situated within a vineyard this hotel offers breathtaking views and a large selection of Alsatian wines. 27 av G. De Gaulle, Ribeauville 68150; 33 03 89 73 80 52; http://www.hotel-la-tour.com/en/hotel-le-menestrel.aspx

 

Where to Eat:

Auberge de l’Ill – Called a “monument to gastronomy” and with three Michelin stars, this is the ultimate. Chef Marc Haeberlin is the fourth generation of his family to head up this exalted temple of haute cuisine. After dining in the posh dining room, you can retreat to the lovely garden on the edge of the River Ill for coffee.  It doesn’t get much better than this. 2 Rue de Collonges au Mont d’Or, Illhaeusern 68970; 33 03 89 71 89 00; www.auberge-de-l-ill.com

La Table du Gourmet, Riquewihr – Chef Jean Luc Brendel has two restaurants in this medieval town, a brasserie, d’Brendelstub, and  La Table du Gourmet which is located in a 16th century building  that was once used by wine growers.  Guest rooms also available. 5 rue de la 1ere Armee, Riquewihr 68340; 33 03 89 86 54 55; www.jlbrendel.com

Hotel-Restaurant Gilg – This charming restaurant in a building dating from 1614 is cozy and classy.  After or before lunch, visit the Gilg wine shop. Rooms are also available. 1 Route Du Vin, Mittelbergheim; 33 03 88 08 91 37.  www.hotel-gilg.com

Auberge du Parc Carola – Gastronomic restaurant on the Route du Vin. 48 route de Bergheim, Ribeauville ; 33 03 89 86 05 75 ; www.auberge-parc-carola.com

Auvergne: Tracing Chanel’s Origins

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Known as “La France profond,” (profound France), the Auvergne in central France, the country’s least populated region, may not rank high on the typical tourist’s itinerary. But for anyone who wants to discover the “real” France with tiny, picturesque villages, magnificent Romanesque churches, interesting towns, more than 300 kinds of cheeses – and beautiful countryside – this is the place.

Auvergne View

Photo: Leah Larkin

“It’s one of the last territories of France that has stayed authentic.  It has not changed much,” says Alain Bozzo, who, with his wife Monique, runs a bed and breakfast on an old estate in the area.  Coco Chanel, the fashion icon who brought us the little black dress, Chanel No. 5 perfume and that signature cardigan jacket, lived in different parts of the Auvergne until the age of 24 when she set off for Paris to launch her career. A region of long dormant volcanoes, Auvergne’s landscape is punctuated with hilltops that rise from the flats. “I am the last of the Auvergne volcanoes which is not extinct,” Coco Chanel had declared. She was feisty, independent, determined and way ahead of her time.

Auvergne and cats

Photo: Leah Larkin

Her path to success defied tradition and is a fascinating rags to riches tale.

However this may be, there are few “Chanel was here” signs hanging in the Auvergne. You have to seek out the connections, which is a very interesting way to discover this pretty part of France which is surprisingly laid-back. Stroll through charming villages like Vichy and Moulins with their tourist attractions, and the capital, Clermont-Ferrand, which is a good place to begin.  The city of 140,000, built on the butte of an ancient volcano, is known for the black/gray volcanic stone used to construct most of its buildings. Chanel was known to say that her hair was black like the city stone.

auvergne Architecture

photo: Leah Larkin

Clermont-Ferrand’s pièce de résistance is the cathedral, built from the 13th to the 19thcentury.  The Gothic structure is a wonder, its black stone exterior giving it a dark and spooky atmosphere. With electric candle-like chandeliers barely lighting the aisles and vibrant hued stained glass windows in contrast, wandering the interior borders on a mystical experience. Unlike the dark cathedral, the recently completely restored Notre Dame de Port, is the town’s Romanesque jewel and declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. This church is bright, its walls a soft yellow and its columns noted for their capitals sculpted with figures depicting stories.

Auvergne Architecture 2

Photo: Leah Larkin

In the town of Issoire, where the Chanel family lived when she was a child, visit the Romanesque Abbatiale Saint Austremoine. The unique aspect of this church is its columns — all bright red.  A guide explains that studies show the columns were originally this color when the church was constructed in the 12th century, and were returned to their original state in the restoration.  Other bright colors decorate the column capitals – all with detailed sculptures of figures.  It’s a bit of a shock, albeit a delightful one, to see a church in such bright and cheery tones especially bearing in mind Chanel’s preference for neutrals.  Afterward, we stroll down a side street to see the Chanel family house, now occupied by a woman who has no idea that Coco resided there. Life goes on, I guess.

When Chanel was 12 years old, she discovered her mother, then age 33, dead in her room.  Her father, a peddler who traveled from market to market to sell his goods and spent little time with the family, abandoned her and her four brothers and sisters. She was sent to a Catholic orphanage where life was strict and monotonous.  At the age of 18, her independent spirit rebelled against the discipline and dull life.  She set off to Moulins where she got a job as a seamstress in a shop selling baby clothes.

Auvergne Dining

Photo: Leah Larkin

But she had grander ambitions.  She wanted to be a singer.  She found a night job at a cabaret, Le Grand Café, entertaining guests between acts by singing amusing songs.  One of her songs, Qui qu’a vu Coco dans l’Trocadero (Who has seen Coco in Trocadero), earned her the name “Coco.”  Today, Le Grand Café has been declared a historic monument and with its original décor of mirrored walls, stained glass ceiling, black iron tables and palms, it’s considered “one of the 10 most beautiful art deco cafes” in France.

The Moulins Cathedral of Notre Dame dates back to the end of the 15th century.  It shields a precious treasure, the Master of Moulin triptych from 1502, a remarkable artwork, its three panels depicting the Annunciation in brilliant colors. A newer Moulins attraction outside the town in a former military barracks built during the reign of Louis XV is the National Center of Theater Costumes. It opened in 2006 and stages two different exhibitions each year of some of its collection of 10,000 garments. The current exhibit, “Collection Noureev,” runs until Jan. 5, 2014.

Auvergne Cathedral Photo

Photo: Leah Larkin

Coco left Moulins in 1907, never making it to the big stage, and moving next to Vichy where she tried again to be recognized as a singer. Once again she failed, but she discovered something else in the elegant spa town put on the map in the 19th century by Napoleon III who ordered the construction of a casino, chalets, boulevards and parks.  During the Belle Époque, its Art Nouveau opera house, hippodrome, elegant thermal centers, and splendid parks were popular hangouts for the upper class that came to take the waters.  Coco wanted to be part of this world of luxury.  Thanks to her lover, a French officer and a wealthy horse breeder, she had an entrée.

Auvergne Garden Photo

Photo: Leah Larkin

But she wanted more than to be a kept woman.   Capitalizing on her talent with a needle and thread, she began making hats for wealthy matrons which were a sensation. With financial help from her lover, she moved to Paris and set up a millinery shop — the beginning of what would ultimately become the Chanel fashion empire.

Vichy has preserved its Belle Époque past. “It’s a little pearl in the center of France, a city stuck in time,” said one resident.  Wandering through the leafy park (the city has 140 hectares of green space), past the opera house and Art Nouveau thermal center, it’s easy to imagine Coco Chanel in this ambience. In her early days here, she did in fact work at a spa dispensing water to help finance her singing lessons. Today, for 25 Euros, you can try a cup of mineral water at the Hall of Source.

It’s strange, but Vichy has neither monuments nor museums in memory of its darker side. During World War II it was the center of the right-wing government under Prime Minister Pétain after the country’s defeat by the Germans in June, 1940. The Vichy government cooperated with the Germans, imprisoning some 135,000 people, deporting 76,000 Jews and sending 650,000 French workers to Germany.  “This is a city of pleasure,” commented a guide.  After the demise of the Vichy regime, all remnants of it were destroyed in the town, she said. “People don’t like to discuss it,” she added.

Auvergne Tour

Photo: Leah Larkin

The medieval Auvergne village of Charroux, declared “one of the most beautiful villages in France,” has not one Chanel connection. But it’s still a must — a gem with its sections of  old walls, towers and gates, as well as numerous quaint boutiques offering candles, lace, soap,  pottery — and mustard. At one of the shops for the latter, a tiny place with an adjoining workshop where the mustard is made, we watched proprietor Olivier Maenner operate a giant mill stone to grind the seeds, then add a combination of vinegar, water and wine to make the final product.  We tasted several varieties of the 20 different kinds of mustard Maenner produces.  And, we made purchases, of course.

Auvergne Grinding

Photo: Leah Larkin

Once Chanel left the Auvergne, she rarely returned. She later acknowledged that her years there had a significant impact on her life.  The “volcano” was extinguished in 1971 at the age of 87.

The area code for France is 33

Where to Stay:

Best Western Gergovie- In Pérignat les Sarliève just outside of Clermont Ferrand.  Pleasant hotel with lovely views of the countryside and the Puy-de-Dôme, the highest peak (4,803 feet) of the dormant volcanoes. 25, Allee du Petit Puy, 63170 Clermont-Ferrand ; 33 (0) 4 73 79 09 95. www.hotel-gergovie-clermontferrand.com

Domaine de Gaudon- Outside of the town of Ceilloux. Alain and Monique Bozzo provide a warm welcome at this restored château where they run a bed and breakfast surrounded by  picturesque countryside. Luxurious rooms tastefully decorated in period styles.  Lavish breakfast.  63520 Ceilloux; 33 (0) 4 73 70 76 25; www.domainedegaudon.fr

Chateau de Maulmont- Located 30 minutes from Clermont Ferrand.  Renovated, impressive château that is a hotel with a gastronomic restaurant.   63310 St. Priest, Bramefont, Randan; 33 (0) 4 70 59 14 95;  www.chateau-maulmont.com

Chateau la Caniere- This hotel between Vichy and Clermont-Ferrand offers an elegant ambience with first-class amenities including a gourmet restaurant. Rue de la Croix Blanche, 63260 Thuret; 33 (0) 4 73 97 88 44; www.chateau-la-camiere.com

Le Clos de Bourgogne- 18th century hotel with restaurant. 83, rue de Bourgogne, 03000 Moulins, 33 (0) 4 70 44 03 10 www.closdebourgogne.fr

 

Where to Eat:

Brasserie du Casino- An elegant, art deco brasserie whose walls date back to 1897. At the turn-of-the century, it was a favorite for artists and those attending the opera located just across the street.  4, rue du Casino, 03200 Vichy; (0) 4 70 98 23 06; www.braserie-du-casion.fr/

Bistrot du Boucher Moulins- Discover turn-of-the century charm in this bistro which is legendary in Moulins.  Both a cafe and brasserie serving from breakfast to dinner.  49 Place d’Alliers, 03000 Moulins, (0) 4 70 44 00 95. http://www.bistrotduboucher.fr/content/restaurant-40-bistrot-du-boucher-moulins-03000.htm     

Le Diapason- Both a hotel and restaurant.  The latter features “gastronomique”cuisine.   Rue Clos de la Chaux, 63500 Le Broc ; (0)  4 73 71 71 71 ; lediapason.fr/index.php/en/

Bath’s- Excellent cuisine and service with the chic ambience of a “New York lounge.” Place St. Pierre, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand; (0) 4  73 31 23 22; www.baths.fr/

 

What to See and Do:

Vulcania- Learn more about volcanoes and have fun at this amusement park and museum offering numerous activities including interactive games based on the theme of water.  Tour guides lead excursions inviting participants to crack the volcanoes’ secrets with games and hand-on exhibits. Route de Mazayes, F 63 230 Saint-Ours-Les-Roches; (0) 4 73 19 70; www.vulcania.com

Aventure Michelin- The two brothers who founded the famous tire company hailed from Clermont-Ferrand. The museum focuses on the work of the two brothers, industrial adventure and technological breakthroughs. 32 rue du Clos Four, 63 100 Clermont-Ferrand; (0)4 73 98 60 60; www.aventure-michelin.com

National Museum of Theater Costumes- This remarkable museum which opened in 2006 has more than 10,000 costumes in its collection.  It stages two exhibitions yearly, each running for about six months. The current exhibit, “Collection Noureev,” runs until Jan. 5  2014. Quartier Villars, route de Montilly- 03000 Moulins; 04 70 20 76 20;  www.cncs.fr

Domaine Gardien- The Auvergne produces wine. Taste the wines of Saint-Pourcain at this family winery. 7, Chassignolles, 03210 Besson; 04 70 42 80 11; www.domainegardien.com

Cheese & Chocolate in Switzerland

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Cheese and chocolate – as much a part of Switzerland as banks and watches.  But, those are not edible and tasting local favorites is one of the highlights of traveling.

chocolate2

Photo: Leah Larkin

A great destination in Switzerland for savoring the best of both cheese and chocolate is the Fribourg region in the western part of the country.  Visit beautiful towns, Fribourg, Gruyères and Murten, and head to nearby cheese and chocolate factories for tasting and purchasing if you wish.

Let’s start with cheese and Gruyères. The town that gave its name to one of Switzerland’s best known cheeses, Gruyère, is the quintessential Swiss burg with flower-bedecked rustic chalets and superb mountain views. It was named among the 14 most beautiful villages in Europe by Travel and Leisure magazine. The town has an interesting museum, a castle and restaurants with the perfect ambience to enjoy that cheese favorite, fondue.

My favorite part of the town castle is the gardens – giant splashes of color surrounded by ancient walls with a mountain backdrop.  The castle film is another winner – an entertaining multimedia production on the castle’s history.  Birds fly onto the screen from the ceiling.  Horse hooves pound.  Monks chant in ancient Latin.  There’s a battle, a fire, flashing lights, shouts and screams.  Fun entertainment.

gruyere7

Photo: Leah Larkin

The HR Giger Museum features three floors of grotesque and strange art from the Swiss surrealist and Academy Award winning designer of “Alien.”  It’s dark and mystical — and weird.   The nearby Giger bar with its Giger oversized skeleton like chairs and ceiling is also a bit off the wall.  The bar is next to a retirement center so most of the regular patrons are senior citizens who seem out of place in this far out environment.

gruyere8

Photo: Leah Larkin

Gruyères is the place to try fondue.  This Swiss specialty is made throughout the country, using different mixtures of Swiss cheeses.  However, an authentic fondue should always be part Gruyère cheese.  In Gruyères fondue is made with half Gruyère and half Vacherin cheese.  Swiss dry white wine is the beverage of choice to accompany fondue.

For more cheese, visit the co-op demonstration dairy, La Maison du Gruyère, located in Pringy just outside the town.  Walk through the second floor of the building, past various exhibits and view cheese making in progess as you listen to commentary on a headset. The cows that are responsible for the distinctive cheese graze in high mountain pastures in the summer, feeding on various grasses – 220 pounds per cow per day. They spend the winter in barns and are fed hay.  That diet, as well as following the production steps of an ancient recipe, makes Gruyère special.  Each cow produces 26 gallons of milk per day.

gruyere2

Photo: Leah Larkin

For sanitary reasons, cheese production is behind glass, but you can watch blades turn in enormous vats of curdled milk and view row upon row of giant cheese rounds, each weighing 77 pounds. The dairy produces 48 of these gigantic wheels of cheese each day.  The rounds age from three months to one year, with the older (my favorite) having a much stronger taste.  Some 7,000 rounds are stored continually in the Gruyère cellars.

gruyere1

Photo: Leah Larkin

At the end of the tour visitors are given a package with three different types of Gruyère to sample.  And, if you want to take some home, the shop sells all varieties, as well as Swiss souvenirs.

But my advice is to save some money for chocolate.  The Maison Cailler Chocolate Factory, the “most visited place in western Switzerland,” is located in nearby Broc.   “Yesterday we had 2,200 visitors,” a guide told us.  No wonder. It’s delightful and delicious.  The tasting (all sorts of chocolate pralines and as much as you want) is preceded by a fun and informative multimedia tour.  Visitors are divided into small groups for the tour which leads through several dimly lit rooms with moving exhibits illustrating the history of chocolate.  There’s commentary, sound effects, smoke, flashing lights and more.   You’ll learn that Spanish Conquistador Don Hernán Cortés went to America seeking yellow gold, but came back with brown gold, cocoa beans.  The Jesuits liked hot chocolate.  The Pope said it was permissible to drink it during Lent.  Marie Antoinette wanted hot chocolate for her last meal… plus more chocolate trivia.

chocolate1

Photo: Leah Larkin

Move on to a room full of huge canvas bags of cocoa beans from different parts of the world. Then, watch the automated chocolate production where robots do most of the work. The grand finale – a room with dozens of trays of all kinds of filled chocolates.  It’s hard not to overindulge.  “Oh, just one more,” you say as another tray of yet another variety is placed before you. Of course, you can’t leave without passing through the shop which offers all sizes and flavors of Cailler chocolate bars.

chocolate.3

Photo: Leah Larkin

It would be a pity to limit your focus to cheese and chocolate and neglect the main city of the region, Fribourg. This charming medieval city occupies a dramatic site on a rocky spur at a bend in the Sarine River, the dividing line between both the German and French speaking sections of the country, as well as the city which is bilingual. Places on the west river bank in Fribourg have French names; those on the east, German names.

fribourg.view

Photo: Leah Larkin

Switzerland has four official languages, yet the majority of the population speaks German (74%) followed by French (21%), Italian (4%) and just 1%, Rhaeto-Romanic or Rumantsch. Fribourg today claims more French speakers than German, although in the distant past the opposite was true.  Fribourg was founded in 1157, with its name derived from the German frei (free) and Burg (fort).

A steep set of steps connects Fribourg’s upper and lower towns, a distance of some 330 feet.  Trekking between the two can easily make you out of breath, so stop for a rest and admire stunning views of rooftops, steeples, rugged cliffs, distant mountains and the river below.   That, too, can take your breath away.

The Basse Ville, (lower town), the historic old town on the river bank, is a medieval treasure. Wander across its bridges, along twisting, skinny streets, past ancient fountains and gothic houses.  The upper town is the new town with a busy shopping street, a university, train station and more.

fribourg.tub

Photo: Leah Larkin

The pleasant city of 33,000 is noted for excellent cuisine (14 gourmet restaurants) and its native son, the artist Jean Tinguely (1925-1991), famous for his bizarre moving creations made of mechanical scraps and other used materials. Tinguely’s fountain symbolizes a car crash and is the piece de resistance in the city park paying tribute to the Formula I racer Joe Siffert who died in a racing accident.  More of his off the wall creations, many powered by water or electricity, are in the museum, Espace Jean Tinguely – Niki de Saint Phalle, a former tramway depot.  French artist Saint Phalle was Tinguely’s companion.  Her works, whimsical, brightly colored feminine shapes known as “nanas,” are another attraction in this amusing and amazing museum.

Also in the amazing category is Fribourg’s funicular, dating from 1899 and constructed using waste water for power.  It connects the upper and lower towns and is still powered with recycled water.  “Ecology before our time,” commented a guide.

Fribourg’s Gothic cathedral, St. Nicholas, is a city landmark with its 225 foot high tower jutting above the town’s red rooftops.  Stained glass windows by the Polish painter Jozef Mehoffer are outstanding examples of religious Art Nouveau.

fribourg7

Photo: Leah Larkin

Another gem of a town in the region is Murten, straddling the shores of a lake by the same name in the heart of the three lakes region between Bern and Lausanne. This medieval town is the capital of the Lake District in the Swiss canton of Fribourg. Murten’s ancient walls surrounding the town still stand with 12 of their 14 original towers.  Stroll along the ramparts walkway for stunning views of the lake, distant hills and mountains, and the tile rooftops at your feet. You’ll find plenty of photo opps.

murten1

Photo: Leah Larkin

Inside the walls, where 400 of the town’s 6,000 residents live, there’s more Middle Ages ambience with a wide cobbled street bordered by arcades with intriguing shops.  One sells dozens of kinds of schnapps and grappas, 30 different kinds of cooking oils and 25 different vinegars.  A bakery window beckons with displays of the local specialty, Nidelkuchen, a luscious cream cake with caramel frosting. There’s a flower shop, a butcher, clothing boutiques and cafes with outdoor tables.

Murten was destroyed by fire in 1416 and entirely rebuilt in stone. Most of the houses within the walls date from that period and are under national protection. They must have tile roofs and are not permitted to have antennas.  The city gate is a clock tower with a working clock that dates to 1712. Every day it’s wound by hand. “First Swiss quality,” commented a local. “

murten4

Photo: Leah Larkin

Like Fribourg, Murten is on the border of the French and German speaking regions of Switzerland with one fourth of its population listed as speaking French while the rest speak German.  “Most people communicate in both languages,” said a guide who explained that both French and German are taught in schools.

“The French are not extremely serious,” she said.  “They are apt to drink a glass of wine more frequently. The Germans are strict and serious. To live together we have to adapt.  One culture learns from the other.” No doubt some of those German speakers have learned the pleasures of drinking wine from the French speakers whom they join for boat excursions across the lake to the opposite shore where vineyards cover the slopes and wonderful wines can be tasted at local wineries.                                                          

The area code for Switzerland is 41.

Where to Stay:

Hotel Restaurant Au Sauvage – In the heart of Fribourg’s old town, Basse Ville.  This magnificent 16th century residence is a small hotel offering a quiet and calm ambience. Comfortable rooms and excellent service.  Planche-Superieure 12, 1700 Fribourg, (0) 26 347 30 60 www.hotel-sauvage.ch

NH Fribourg Hotel – Situated in the center of Fribourg (upper city) it’s convenient for visiting the picturesque town and nearby attractions.  Large, modern and comfortable.  Grand Places 14, 1700 Fribourg, (0) 26 351 91 91. www.nh-hotels.com

Hotel Fleur de Lys – Located in the center of Gruyères, this small hotel offers comfortable rooms in a rustic ambience.  Restaurant features local specials.  Rue du Bourg 14, 1663 Gruyeres, (0) 26 921 82 82, www.hotelfleurdelys.ch

Auberge aux 4 Vents – A unique small hotel outside of Fribourg surrounded by beautiful gardens. Just eight rooms, each with a different period décor. The Blue Room features a moveable bathtub – press a button and the tub glides to an outside platform with gorgeous mountain views.  Gourmet restaurant. Grandfey 124, 1763 Granges-Paccot, (0) 26 321 56 00, http://aux4vents.ch

 

Where to Eat:

Pinte des Trois Canards – Located outside Fribourg above a raging mountain stream.   Mountain trout is the special and the restaurant has 30 different ways to prepare it.  Chemin du Gottéron 102, 1700 Fribourg,  (0) 26 321 28 22, www.pintedestroiscanards.blogspot.ch

Auberge aux 4 Vents and Hotel Fleur de Lys,  see above.

Le Chalet de Gruyères – A fondue chalet par excellence.  Rustic, woodsy, cozy. Fondue and other cheese specials are the highlights. Rue de Bourg 53, 1663 Gruyères,  (0) 26 921 21 54, http://www.gruyeres-hotels.ch/chaletdegruyeres/index.html

Restaurant des Bains – A delightful eatery on the shores of Lake Murten with a large lakeside terrace.  Fish from the lake are especially popular. Ryf 35, 3280 Murten, (0) 26 670 23 38, www.desbains-murten.ch

 

What to See and Do:

La Maison du Gruyère – Learn all about this famous cheese. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., May thru October and until 6 p.m. October thru May.  Cheese making from 9 a.m. until 11 a.m. and from 12:30 p.m.  to 2:30 p.m. Admission is 7 Swiss Francs. Place de la Gare 3, 1663 Pringy,  (0) 26 921 84 00, www.lamaisondugruyere.ch/

Maison Cailler Chocolate Factory – Enjoy a delightful multi-media visit and learn all about Switzerland’s premier chocolate.  Plenty of free samples. Open daily April to October, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; November – March, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission:  Adults,10 Swiss francs, Children up to 16 years, free. Rue Jules Bettel 7, 1636 Broc, (0) 26 921 59 60.  www.cailler.ch

More on the Gruyère region:  www.la-gruyere.ch

Espace Jean Tinguely-Niki de Saint Phalle – Admire the works of these two 20th century artists in a former tramway depot, turned museum. Rue de Morat, 1700 Fribourg, (0) 26 305 51 70.

Take a boat ride on Lake Murten from the town of Murten.  Get off in Vully on the opposite shore to visit a winery and taste the area’s delicious vintages. More info at www.murten.ch

 

 

 

Balinese Cooking Class

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The Paon Bali Cooking Class is much more than chopping, dicing and stir frying. Along with these basic cooking tasks and learning about tasty Balinese cuisine, it’s an enriching introduction to Balinese life and customs.

Ni Luh Made Puspawati, who asks to be called Puspa, and her husband, Wayan Subawa, offer cooking classes in their charming home just outside the town of Ubud. But, before getting started there are the preparations—a trip to Ubud’s bustling market where all manner of fruits and vegetables are for sale. Some women sit on the ground with their produce spread out on blankets while others have stands to display their merchandise. It’s crowded and chaotic but fascinating.

To westerners, much of the produce is exotic and unknown. Our market guide, Nyoman Murdiono, lets us taste mangosteen, durian, jackfruit, hairy fruit (rambutan) and more. He leads us to the knife section and explains the different kinds of tools needed in the Balinese kitchen. Next, the spices. My classmates and I make a few key purchases.

Buying Mangosteens at the Ubud Market. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Buying Mangosteens at the Ubud Market. Photo: Leah Larkin.

On the way back home where cooking will get underway, we stop at the rice paddies near the village. “Each family has a rice paddy,” Murdiono explained. “If a village has 150 families, it will have 150 rice paddies. He plucks a shoot of rice and shows us where a grain is growing. We walk on to the village school where he explains the Balinese educational system as children eagerly pose for photos.

At the family home, Subawa, the man of the house, greets us. “You are a guest in my home,” he says as he offers each of us a welcome drink, refreshing lime juice. A Balinese home is made of several sections, each an individual structure. The complex always includes the family temple which faces east. Most Balinese are devout Hindus, and religion plays an important role in their lives, including their culinary traditions. Religious ceremonies and festivals which involve special foods are prevalent. Subawa shows us the building where he and his wife sleep, and the rocks adjacent to the entrance marking the spots where the placentas of their children are buried. Placenta burial is very important to the Balinese who believe the spirit of the placenta will ensure that children remember their parents.

Wayan Subawa Shows his Guests Around his House. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Wayan Subawa Shows his Guests Around his House. Photo: Leah Larkin.

He then ushers us to the outdoor kitchen overlooking the jungle where Puspa, our effervescent and ever smiling teacher, and several assistants take over. We will be preparing Balinese – not Indonesian – dishes, Puspa, explains. Bali is one of 13,466 islands that make up the Indonesian archipelago. Its cuisine is influenced by both China and India. A typical meal consists of many different dishes, always accompanied by rice. The food is pungent and spicy enriched with the flavors of fresh ginger, raw chilies, shrimp paste, palm sugar, and tamarind. During our morning session, we prepared eight different dishes, all of which we savor for lunch, the finale of our cooking class.

Cleanliness is foremost at Puspa’s school. We were directed to wash our hands several times, and given plastic gloves for some of the tasks. Most of the prep had been done prior, so we were spared the chopping and dicing. But we did blend and sauté under Puspa’s watchful eye. We all took turns using a “Balinese blender”—a bowl filled with ingredients which you mash and blend with a long pole.

Trying out a Balinese Blender. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Trying out a Balinese Blender. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Most of our dishes were cooked in coconut oil, which we learned “is basic to Balinese cooking.” In country villages people make their own coconut oil. Puspa also makes her own and she demonstrated how it is made on an outdoor fire, a lengthy multi-step process. But the result, she assured us, is much better than store bought oil. Coconut oil has other uses, too. The Balinese rub babies’ fingers with the oil, use it for massages and put it on mosquito bites.

Another basic is the yellow sauce which is called for in numerous recipes. We whipped it up in no time as all the chopping had been done before our arrival. We were given copies of all the recipes we learned but this one I was most interested in trying when I returned home. Garlic, galangal, fresh turmeric, two different kinds of hot chilies, lemon grass and shrimp paste are among the ingredients. I found most of these at an Asian store, with the exception of fresh turmeric for which I had to substitute turmeric powder. This is a sauce with a punch that adds the magic touch to Balinese cuisine. Making the sauce at home was time consuming; however, the recipe makes a large quantity which can be kept in the refrigerator for two to three weeks for reuse. It’s the key ingredient in Chicken in Coconut Cream, a tasty concoction which I made for guests who loved it. Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves and Coconut and Snake Bean Salad were two other recipes that called for the yellow sauce.

Keeping the Fire Going in the Outdoor Stove. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Keeping the Fire Going in the Outdoor Stove. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Peanut sauce is another frequent ingredient in Balinese cuisine and is much easier to make than the yellow. One of my favorite dishes was Vegetables in Peanut Sauce. You can use any veggies of your choice. Pusba’s version included a combination of cabbage, string beans, cucumber and tofu. This sauce is also used in Chicken Sate (minced chicken grilled on bamboo sticks). If you can’t find bamboo sticks just use ice cream sticks or chop sticks, our teacher suggested.

But, almost everyone’s favorite dish was Deep Fried Tempe (an Indonesian soybean variant) in Sweet Soy Sauce. No yellow or peanut sauces in this recipe, instead the ingredients are 10 red chilies and five kaffir lime leaves. I’m not a huge tofu fan, but this was terrific.

Traditional Balinese Dishes. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Traditional Balinese Dishes. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Clear Mushroom and Vegetable Soup was our first course, while Boiled Banana in Palm Sugar Syrup was the finale—all delicious and beautifully presented.

Pusba’s enthusiasm for Bali and its food is a key element in her class. Her course is fun, entertaining, educational—and delicious. She started her home cooking school five years ago and is proud to announce that on Trip Advisor it’s the number two cooking school in Ubud, but the third tourist attraction in the town.

“People are interested in traditional food,” she said. “I love to invite people to my house. I love to show Balinese life.”

Puspa Teaching her Students. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Puspa Teaching her Students. Photo: Leah Larkin.

Paon Bali Cooking Class
Laplapan Village
Ubud Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia
+62 81 337 939095
Contact: Wayan Subawa
www.paon-bali.com

The Jewish Ancestry Trail, Czech Republic

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Map of Czech Republic Jewish Sites

Map of Czech Republic Jewish Sites

The Czech Republic is rich in remnants of a flourishing Jewish community, at one time the largest and most vibrant in the world. While Prague is the epicenter of Czech Jewish memorabilia, tracking down Jewish heritage in other parts of the country can be a fascinating voyage of discovery, starting from sites near Prague to Pilzeň in the west, Mikulov in the south and more. Along the various routes, take time to explore some of the Czech Republic’s numerous castles, hike in its forests or chill out at one of its famous spas.

Synagogue in Pilzen

Synagogue in Pilzen

Throughout history Jews, who settled in what was originally the regions of Bohemia and Moravia (today the Czech Republic) as early as the 10th century, have known both prosperity and peril. Good times have been interspersed with lengthy periods of persecution. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire during World War I, the two regions along with Silesia declared their independence and united to become Czechoslovakia. Jews played a dominant role in the country’s economy and industry and built schools and synagogues. According to a 1930 census, Czechoslovakia had a population of 356,830 Jews. Of those, 118,000 resided in what is now the Czech Republic. But the Holocaust brought a tragic halt to the growth of this community. About 89,000 Jews were deported to concentration camps where at least 78,000 perished.

Kutna-Hora

Kutna-Hora

During World War II, about 70 synagogues were destroyed by the Nazis. More than 150 provincial communities in Bohemia and Moravia were eradicated. Destruction continued after the war during the communist era when more synagogues were demolished or converted for other uses. Today, however, there are at least 145 synagogues throughout the country, 65 of which have been reconstructed since 1989. Seven are still used as places of worship while others serve as museums or cultural venues. This is good news for anyone looking to connect with their Jewish roots in Czech Republic. After Communism fell in 1989, Jewish life in Czechoslovakia continued a process of revival.   In 1993, Czechoslovakia split into two constituent states: the Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic. At that time there were about 3,000 Jews in the Czech Republic, including 1,300 in Prague where an old age home for Jews opened in 1993 and a Jewish kindergarten opened in 1994. Today about 5,000 Jews call Prague home. A few other Czech cities have smaller communities.   The existing synagogues as well as streets, ghettoes and cemeteries throughout the country, are testimony to both the suffering and prosperity of Jews during past decades. Explore this vibrant country stopping to visit the following towns to learn more about the legacy of Czech Jews. You could begin your journey with the sites and towns nearest to Prague.

 

TEREZÍN (Theresienstadt)

Terezin

Terezin

This town just north of Prague, named by Joseph II after his mother, Empress Maria Theresa, is part of a tragic chapter in Jewish history. In the 18th century it served as a fortress, with both a Main and Small fortress to protect Prague from invaders. The Small Fortress was used as the Hapsburg monarchy’s prison during World War I, and amongst its inmates were the plotters of the Sarajevo assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand along with Gavrilo Princip who carried it out. He died in the Small Fortress in 1918. Prior to the war Terezín had a population of about 5,000 but that dramatically increased during the Nazi era when it became known by its German name, Theresienstadt. Well known Jewish musicians, writers, artists and leaders from the Czech Republic and eight other countries were sent there for “safe”keeping from the stresses of war. This was merely Hitler’s attempt to stave off criticism and objections from the civilized world. The town soon sheltered more than 55,000 Jews in its ghetto where starvation and disease were rampant. Theresienstadt was not a death camp like Auschwitz-Birkenau or Treblinka, however ultimately some 200,000 men, women and children passed through here enroute to the east and probable death. After the war, the town was renamed Terezín and the Czech government maintained a military garrison there. With the departure of the troops in 1996, the town’s fragile economy plummeted. Terezín today is still struggling to develop a more diverse economy which includes the necessary development of heritage tourism. Today, the Small Fortress and the Ghetto can be visited as well as the Crematorium site and National Cemetery.

 

LIDICE

lidice

Lidice

In 1942 both men and boys over the age of 16 were shot by the Nazis here, while women and children were deported to concentration camps. The original village, about 10 miles northwest of Prague, was completely destroyed by German forces in retaliation for the assassination of Reich Protector Reinhard Heydrich in the spring of 1942. A sculpture, “The Memorial to the Children Victims of the War,” overlooks the site of the old village of Lidice. A cross with a crown of thorns marks the mass grave of the Lidice men and there is also a memorial area flanked by a museum and a small exhibition hall. In 1955 a “Rosarium” of 29,000 rose bushes was created beside an avenue of lindens overlooking the site of the old village. It was neglected for many years, but a new one with 21,000 bushes was designed and created in 2001.

 

ȞERMANŮV MĔSTEC

Hejnice

Hejnice

Located east of Prague in the Iron Mountain region, the town has several Jewish sites open to visitors: a cemetery, the former synagogue and the building where a Jewish school was located.   After extensive renovation, the synagogue reopened in 2001 and is used for cultural events. Its origins date to the 18th century, but during the 19th century it was reconstructed in neo-Romantic style. The Jewish school, built in 1862, now houses a gallery with an exhibition of works by East Bohemian artists of the 20th century.

 

TŘEBIČ

Trebic

Trebic

A picturesque town spread out on both banks of the Jihlava River in the Bohemian-Moravian highlands (central Czech Republic), Trěbič was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2003, namely because its relics, both Jewish and Christian, are evidence of the coexistence and interchanges between Jews and Christians. A Benedictine Monastery was founded in the town at a river crossing in 1101. This spurred development of a market which attracted Jewish traders. St. Procopius Basilica, an abbey dating to the 13th century, was originally part of the monastery and is now linked to a castle which was built on the site in the 16th century. It’s a gem of medieval architecture and is worth a visit along with the other numerous churches in Trěbič.

Trebic Jewish Quarter

Trebic Jewish Quarter

Trěbič‘s Jewish quarter with its two main streets and narrow medieval alleys is thought to be the best preserved in Europe. Many of the 123 houses here are still intact – some with Renaissance and Baroque features on the facades. The Jewish Town Hall, Rabbinate, school, and hospital are also still standing. In the quarter’s early days, its residents were involved in money lending as well as crafts, such as tanning and glove making and from the beginning it had its own self-government. In the 16th century orders specified that Jews be expelled from the quarter, but they weren’t enforced. After 1875 when Jews were free to move and buy property elsewhere, the wealthy moved out, leaving the ghetto to the poor. Some 1,500 Jews were living there in 1890 but by the 1930s, only about 300 remained. All were deported during World War II and none are presently there. Třebič’s Synagogue (1639-42), known as the New Synagogue, is a simple Baroque building. A women’s gallery was added to the northern part in 1837, since in Jewish tradition, men and women cannot occupy the same space in the sanctuary. For many years it wasn’t used and fell into disrepair in the 1980s. Renovation was completed on it in 1997 and it’s now used for exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events. The former women’s gallery houses a permanent exhibition of Jewish culture with many valuable objects used in secular and religious life on display. The Jewish Cemetery consists of two parts, one from the 15th century and the other from the 19th century. Notable carvings embellish some of the 3,000 tombstones. A ceremonial hall from 1903 located at the entrance is still intact. Nature lovers will want to explore Třebič’s surroundings, an undulating landscape of forests, ponds and river valleys with an extensive network of hiking trails.

 

MIKULOV

Amidst a stunning landscape of vineyards and white cliffs, this charming town in the southern part of the country near the Austrian border has an impressive Baroque chateau, as well as many old and picturesque houses that were part of a former Jewish ghetto. A row of these houses has been declared a cultural monument. Mikulov’s Jewish community was once one of the largest in Moravia and a major center of the Jewish religion. After being expelled from Vienna and Lower Austria in the early 15th century, Jews found refuge here. The town is known for its annual Palava Wine Harvest Festival bringing visitors from all over the globe. www.mikulov.cz

 

PILZEŇ

Pilzen

Pilzen

The Czech Republic’s fourth largest city is a must in pursuit of Jewish heritage – and much more. It was recently named the European Capital of Culture 2015 (along with Mons in Belgium) and is now being included on many “Top 10 to Visit” lists. The town center has been declared a historic landmark with its Great Synagogue among its architectural masterpieces. It is the second largest synagogue in Europe and the third largest in the world. Built in 1888 in the Moorish-Romanesque style with two main towers dominating the front of the building, it is rich in decoration. Originally the towers were supposed to be much taller, but city officials did not want the structure competing in height with the nearby cathedral. It is still in use today for religious services as well as serving as a venue for exhibitions and concerts thanks to its excellent acoustics and unique pneumatic organ. Other notable Pilzeň buildings include the Gothic St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral and the Renaissance City Hall.

Pilzen, Plzen

Pilzen

And while in Pilzeň don’t neglect beer. “Pils” or “pilsner,” a type of pale lager, was named after the city where it was first produced in 1842. Tour the Pilsner Urquell factory for a tasting and more.

www.plzen2015.cz/en/o-projektu/the-european-capital-of-culture-concept.

Pilzen, Plzen

Pilzen

 

BOSKOVICE

Boscovice, Castle, Czech Republic

Boscovice Castle

This town in southern Moravia has a castle, chateau – plus an interesting Jewish quarter, a synagogue and Jewish cemetery. Jews first settled in the town about 1343, but a thriving Jewish community developed later, in the mid 15th century. The baroque synagogue, whose foundations date from 1639, is a jewel with splendid fresco paintings dating from the early 18th century which include Hebraic liturgical texts by Polish refugees.  Opened to the public in 2002 after reconstruction, the synagogue is now home to a permanent exhibition on the Boskovice Jewish quarter, documenting the history of the local Jewish community.  The cemetery, one of the largest Jewish in the Czech Republic (3.7 acres), contains 2,400 tombstones.

 

VELKÉ MEZIŘÍČÍ

Under a Gothic castle in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, Velke Mezirici was home to an independent Jewish community beginning in the 17th century. Visit its well-preserved Jewish cemetery with Baroque tombstones from those early years.

 

*In addition to the towns and sites mentioned here, traces of former Jewish quarters still exist in some 180 towns, cities and villages in the Czech Republic. BRECLAV has a newly restored synagogue. PODIVIN, the site of the first written mention of Jews in Moravia in 1067, has a Jewish cemetery with a ritual hall and museum exhibit.  There are Jewish sites in BRNO and remnants of a Jewish settlement in SAFOV – plus numerous other places of interest to visit in the pursuit of the Jewish heritage in the Czech Republic.

www.travelsquire.com/czech-republic/stories/

 

The international dialing code for Czech Republic is 420.

 

The following tour operators specialize in Jewish ancestry tours:

Kesher Tours –USA, New York, NY; (212) 481-3721; www.keshertours.com; keshertours@verizon.net

Arza World – USA; 147 W. 35th Street, New York, NY; 1 (888) 811-2812; www.arzaworld.com

Isram World – USA; 233 Park Avenue South, New York, NY; 1 (800) 223-7460;  www.isramworld.com; info@Isramworld.com

Kesher Tours – USA, New York, NY; (212) 481-3721; www.keshertours.com; keshertours@verizon.net

Precious Legacy Tours – Czech Republic; Kaprova 13, Prague; +420-222 (32) 1954;  www.legacytours.net; luba@legacytours.net

Wittmann Tours – Czech Republic; Novotného lávka 200/5, Prague; +420-222-252-472; www.wittmann-tours.com; office@wittman-tours.com

Private Tours – Czech Republic; Křižíkova 393/73, Prague; +420-604-254-334; jewish.tourstoprague.com; info@private-tours.net

Jewish Prague Travel – Czech Republic, Prague; +420 604 857 554; www.kosherprague.com; info@kosherprague.com

Avantgarde Prague – Czech Republic; Jáchymova 3, Prague; +420-226-235-080; www.avantgarde-prague.cz/; info@avantgarde-prague.cz

From TS Editorial – For those wanting to discover a revolutionary new concept in Jewish Heritage travel and live close to the NYC area, Czech Tourism NY in cooperation with New York’s 92nd Street Y’s “Center for Jewish Diversity” will be hosting a lecture by Professor Barry Goldsmith on Czech Jewish Architecture & Architects at the 92nd Street Y on Thursday evening, December 11, 2014 at 7:30. Professor Goldsmith will start in Prague’s well-known Jewish Quarter then segue to unknown Jewish architecture in Greater Prague, in Brno (the Czech Republic’s second city) and in the rest of the Czech Republic.Goldsmith’s new focus is on architecture built by Jews for use by everyone — Jews and Gentiles.   Czech Jewish architects from the late 19th century through the 21st century designed in every building style.  And in Brno, Jews were in the forefront of 20th-century “Functionalism” (“Modernism” in the U.S.)  Many Czech Jewish architects studied with and were even proteges of the greats, such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Adolf Loos, Walter Gropius, and Le Corbusier.

Skiing Portes du Soleil

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The Portes du Soleil ski region with slopes in both France and Switzerland is what European skiing is all about.  It claims to be the largest ski area in the world with 194 lifts on 13 different resorts in the two countries. Ski from mountain village to mountain village, resort to resort, even across international borders.  Savor lunch at charming mountain huts.  Discover wide-open slopes with nary another skier in sight.  Sail down trails through the trees.  Head “off-piste” for challenge.  Awesome indeed!

skiing in france, skiing in switzerland, Portes de Soleil Slopes

Portes de Soleil Slopes

I’ve skied Portes du Soleil several times, most recently over the Christmas holidays.  As during previous visits, I stayed on the Swiss side of the Alps in Champéry, a picturesque old-world village with wooden chalets, interesting shops and restaurants, and a church whose bells chime frequently. Champéry has no slopes, but it’s a short walk from most of the town’s hotels to the  125 passenger Planachaux cable car for the ride to the top. There you can head off in one direction to ski Swiss slopes or the other direction to French resorts, including well-known Avoriaz.

Champéry, skiing in france, skiing in switzerland

Bell Tower of church in Champéry

Since it was snowing during the first few days of my visit and visibility was limited , friends and I stayed on the Swiss slopes and skied the blue and red (beginner and intermediate) runs above the village of Les Crosets. It was marvelous, with spectacular scenery and few other skiers to tarnish the natural wonder.

skiing in france, skiing in switzerland, the Portes de Soleil Slopes

The Portes de Soleil Slopes

A few days later when the sun burst through the clouds, we ventured to France, to Avoriaz and beyond.  Avoriaz is a functional ski village with high-rise apartment complexes, lots of restaurants, and some futuristic ski lifts.  Express chair lifts whisk you to both red and black (intermediate and difficult) runs in Les Hauts Forts above the town.  We continued down the valley to Les Lindarets, skiing scenic routes bordered by towering pines. Our return to Avoriaz by the Prodains Express was impressive – a high speed, sleek lift with twelve 35-passenger cabins.  At the end of the four-minute cable car ride, an escalator awaits for the last leg of the ascent.

Avoriaz, skiing in france, skiing in switzerland

Avoriaz

The ultimate Portes du Soleil adventure is to ski a circuit from village to village. If you’re a strong and fast skier, you may be able to hit all the resorts in one day, but with little time for lunch.  The Portes du Soleil ski map has a suggested circuit route with signposts on the slopes to those resorts. You need to begin early to make sure you arrive back at your starting point before the lifts close.  I tried this once years ago when I was with a ski club of Americans, military and civilians stationed in Germany and it was almost a disaster.  It was the last day of our skiing holiday and we were several lifts and slopes away from our departing bus. When we realized our time was running out, the fastest skiers raced ahead to hold the bus.  Since the rest of us held up the bus for half an hour, we had to follow tradition and buy all the waiting passengers a beer.

The ultimate Portes du Soleil challenge is the Swiss Wall (Chavanette).  My American ski friends called it “the wall of death.”  It’s long and steep, not exactly groomed, with a maze of giant moguls.  An American skier did actually perish on this slope some years ago.  He found the skiing too difficult and took off his skis to walk down, but slipped and fell, hitting his head on a rock.  No matter how difficult a slope, you are safer with your skis on, experts advise.

skiing in france, skiing in switzerland, directional signs on the slopes

Directional Signs on the Slopes

A long chairlift glides above the Swiss Wall.  On the ride up you can watch the action, usually lots of skiers falling.  But, there’s no need to ski this treacherous slope as you can ski the back slopes and avoid it altogether.  In my younger and fitter days, I skied the infamous Wall.  If you’re a good skier, it’s one of those legendary runs you want to say you’ve conquered.

While Champéry is without its own slopes, you can still end your day with your skis on, not crammed into a cable car for the descent.  From the top of the Ripaille lift, there is an intermediate trail to the Grand Paradis ski area adjacent to Champéry.  From there shuttle buses run from its parking lot right to the village.  It’s a perfect leisurely and scenic finale to a day on the slopes.

skiing in france, skiing in switzerland, the terrace at chez coquoz

The Terrace at Chez Coquoz

A mountain lunch is a highlight of any ski day. On the slopes above Champéry, we discovered   Chez Coquoz, a delightful, cozy retreat with a fireplace and terrace with sensational views all around.  The eatery features unusually innovative offerings, some made from mountain flowers and herbs. Proprietor Agnes Coquoz, a friendly soul who in her younger days was a member of the Swiss Olympic ski team, convinced us to try the day’s special, “hay soup,” made from dried mountain grass and other herbs.  It was quite tasty.  A few days later we returned for another savory and intriguing treat, this time gnocchi, which was also made with mountain grass along with cheese, cream and nuts.

Agnes Coquoz, Hay Soup, skiing in france, skiing in switzerland

Agnes Coquoz and Her Hay Soup

Another highlight for lunch on the Swiss slopes of Champoussin, one of the 12 Portes du Soleil ski villages, was La Ferme à Gaby, where the specialty is a delectable farm to table cheese made with both goat and cow’s milk.  At the entrance to the woodsy chalet is a large chart listing the names of more than 100 goats and their offspring.  Be sure to order a cheese plate and try all the delicious varieties.

Mountains around Champéry, skiing in france, skiing in switzerland

Mountains Around Champéry

“Portes du Soleil is different from any other resort,” a spokesperson in the local tourist office said to me.  “There are a great many easy slopes suitable for skiing with the family, as well as challenging off-piste terrain.  You can ski a whole week without doing the same run twice. And crossing international borders makes it more interesting.”

I couldn’t have agreed more and look forward to returning.

www.champery.ch

www.portesdusoleil.com

 

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Where to Stay:

National Hotel & Restaurant – A small, family-run hotel in the heart of Champéry with a gourmet restaurant.  Walk to the Planachaux cable car (less than 10 minutes) or hop on the free shuttle from the village to the lift.  National Hotel, 1874 Champéry, Valais, Switzerland.  41 24 479 11 30;  www.lenational.ch

Where to Eat:

La Ferme à Gaby – A farm to table restaurant that specializes in homemade cheeses and regional products. Lodging is also available. 1873 Champoussin, Valais, Switzerland, 41 24 477 30 88; www.lafermeagaby.ch

Chez Coquoz – Inviting ambience with a terrace and panoramic view.  Unusual menu with specials made using mountain flowers and herbs along with standard fare. 1874 Champéry, Valais, Switzerland;  41 24 479 12 55

Tanah Merah Resort and Gallery

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tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

A stay at Tanah Merah was a highlight of a visit to Ubud, Bali, several years ago. This secluded boutique hotel in a luxuriant tropical setting is the perfect place to chill out.  Like much of Bali, there is something mystical about it so I knew I’d return.  I did exactly that recently with my husband and it was idyllic.  Tanah Merah (red earth), located four kilometers outside of Ubud, is the realization of a dream for Peter Bloch, the Danish dentist who created this haven of tranquility.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

He bought the land on a cliff above the Petanu River Gorge and began construction in 2000.  There are now 17 rooms, including individual cottages and luxurious villas.  The latter have private plunge pools, some with waterfalls.  During both visits, we had a deluxe studio with two canopied king-sized beds, private terrace and enormous bathroom with a gleaming copper tub.  Bloch, who designed all the rooms himself, did not scrimp on the bathrooms – all lavish and spacious.  Fascinating art objects and paintings from his private collection add elegance to the guest rooms.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

Collecting is the jovial Dane’s passion.  “I am constantly collecting.  It’s terrible. It’s a disease,” he says.  He opened a museum at the resort, nine rooms, each behind heavy, elaborately carved wooden doors, and all underground in a temperature-controlled environment.  The contents, priceless, amazing and unusual objects, include paintings, weavings, objects of gold, daggers, masks and carved furniture. From Europe, there’s his mother’s dining room recreated from furnishings from the family home in Denmark, complete with a lavish table setting.  A museum guided tour is fascinating.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Balinese God Statue

Bloch, who speaks numerous languages, likes to mingle with his guests.  He knows every crevice in Bali and is a wealth of information about what to see and do. Excursions with resort drivers can be arranged, however, it will be hard to tear yourself away from this hidden paradise where the many stone statues of gods and spirits add to the almost spiritual, enchanting ambience.  Young Balinese women clad in vibrant sarongs place fresh offerings of flowers at the statues each morning.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Photo Leah Larkin

The resort’s grounds are expansive. Steps lead up and down a verdant hillside with colorful blossoms and lush foliage and there’s an infinity pool at the edge of a cliff with fabulous views of the surroundings.  The property is serenely private and you rarely see other guests.  On many occasions I had the pool to myself. Float in the water, gaze up at the sky and greenery all around, and listen to chirping birds and other creatures.  It’s magical.  For an authentic jungle experience, descend a steep flight of steps to the river and swim in a pool under a waterfall – a scene out of a Tarzan movie.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Photo Leah Larkin

ubud, anah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Ubud, Bali

I’m not a big fan of massages, but the one I had at Tanah Merah during my first stay was the best ever. Fortunately the same masseuse is still there, and her technique is still fabulous. Breakfasts, the hearty English kind with bacon and eggs, as well as fresh fruit and croissants, are the perfect way to start the day, served either at the alfresco restaurant Petanu, down the hillside amidst the jungle greenery or on your private terrace or balcony.  Another open-air restaurant overlooking a lovely pool where noisy frogs thrive serves lunch and dinner.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Hindu Ceremony in Bali

The town of Ubud with shops, restaurants and a bustling market, is about a 15-minute drive from the resort.  Tanah Merah offers guests free shuttle service.

“We are different from other hotels,” said Tanah Merah marketing manager Herman Nto.  “We have a great atmosphere and we treat guests like family.”

We were so happy to be part of that family once again.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Balinese God Statue

 

Tanah Merah Art Resort

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali
Jalan Melayang
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia.
Tel: +62 361 898 7952 | +62 361 898 7954
Fax: +62 361 898 7853

Email : info@tanahmerahbali.com

www.tanahmerahbali.com


Revolutionary French Frigate Hermione Sails to U.S.

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Replica of historic ship commemorates epic voyage

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille - Association Hermione La Fayette

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille – Association Hermione La Fayette

Thank you, French President Francois Hollande.  You and your entourage stole my place on the magnificent French frigate, the Hermione, which is now en route to the U.S. from France.  I, along with several other journalists, had been scheduled to board and tour the ship; even have lunch with the crew, before its departure to Yorktown, Va.  But, at the last minute you decided to board and bid farewell to the crew.  We were bumped – and bummed out. C’est la vie!

The ship that I missed touring is a replica of the original Hermione, a French warship that ferried Marquis de Lafayette across the Atlantic in 1780 to help General George Washington and the rebels in the fight for American independence.

The “new” Hermione is now duplicating that voyage of 235 years ago. Craftsmen, artisans and technicians have worked for more than 15 years on a reconstruction of the legendary ship.  Completed in 2012, the replica Hermione looks every inch like an authentic tall ship.  Throughout June and early July it will stop at  different ports on the U.S. and Canada’s eastern sea coast (See schedule below), before returning to its home port in Rochefort, France,  in August where it will be open to visitors.

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille - Association Hermione La Fayette

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille – Association Hermione La Fayette

Mark Jensen, 57, is one of three lucky Americans who were chosen to be among the crew of 80.  I did not get to meet him, but I spoke to him on the phone. “It’s a dream come true for me….It’s very exciting.  We are remaking history,” he said.  Jensen, who has been working on ships since the age of 12, now has a sailboat in New York City which he charters.  “I am looking forward to bringing back to life the story and friendship between Washington and Lafayette, their deep desire for the freedom of individuals,” he said.

While it was disappointing not to board the ship, it was thrilling to see the splendid three-masted frigate, the French flag fluttering from its stern,  anchored off-shore the tiny island of Aix the evening before its departure. Trying for a closer view, all sizes and types of smaller craft surrounded the proud and regal vessel as if paying honor to royalty.  On shore a TV crew set up amidst lots of admirers with cameras.  Dismal skies did not dampen the excitement.

The original Hermione was equipped with dozens of cannons and could cross the Atlantic in two months.  A small group of French enthusiasts spent two decades planning and fundraising for its replica.  Construction started in the dry dock at Rochefort in 1997 and dragged on for 15 years due to costs.  Money had to be raised while construction was underway.  The end product: an almost perfect replica with complicated rigging, multiple sails, impressive paintwork on the hull and numerous other genuine details.

Hermione. Photo: David Compain

Hermione. Photo: David Compain

Of course, it’s not an exact replica.  “I would say that we have achieved an unprecedented level of authenticity, but we still had to conform to modern health and safety legislation and there are fixed requirements for vessels wanting permission to sail across the Atlantic,”  the ship’s captain, Yann Cariou,  told a reporter for the newspaper, Connexion. For example, the cannons are lightweight and non-functional.  The rigging is made of traditional hemp, but the sails are synthetic which makes them stronger and easier to handle.  Steel has replaced rope for the anchor cable.

On that legendary voyage in 1780, the Hermione had a crew of between 200 and 240.  It took 70 sailors just to raise the anchor.  Lafayette was content. “She sails like a bird,” he said.

Fifty-six members of the current crew of 80 are volunteers, with one third being women.  All had to achieve fitness levels required to climb the rigging and manage the sails in all weather conditions.

You can track the Hermione’s progress with a series of videos and webinars at facebook.com/hermione.voyage and at the official site, hermione2015.com

Hermione’s East Coast schedule:

Yorktown, Va., June 5 – 7

Mount Vernon, Va., June 9

Alexandria, Va., June 10, 11

Annapolis, Md., June 15 – 17

Baltimore, Md., June 19 – 20

Fort Mifflin, Pa.,   June 25

Philadelphia, Pa., June 26 – 28

New York City, July 2 – 4

Greenport, NY, July 6, 7

Newport, RI, July 8, 9

Boston, Mass., July 11, 12

Castine, Maine, July 14, 15

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, July 18

The ship will be back in Rochefort on August 16.

Germany’s Fun Festivals

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Germans sure know how to throw a party.  Fun festivals with oom-pah bands, beer, wine, sausages plus all sorts of tasty edibles — and plenty of gemütlichkeit.  There really is no accurate translation for this word which describes the jolly ambience and lively spirit that is the essence of these celebrations. There’s even a toast to gemütlichkeit, “Ein Prosit, Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit” sung over and over at fests as folks raise their mugs, steins or glasses. Munich’s Oktoberfest is known the world over, but there’s so much more.  One source claims there are 10,000 different fests in Germany every year celebrating beer, wine, sausage, onions, garlic, music, dance, saints, holidays; the list goes on.

Many, many years ago shortly after moving to Germany I joined friends to take in the wine fest in the town of Bad Durkheim on Germany’s Wine Road.  Its proper name is the Durkheimer Wurstmarkt, literally sausage market, yet it is the world’s largest wine festival with some 600,000 visitors every year. I was overwhelmed.  Wine is served in large half liter glasses. Rousing music. Long tables in tents where folks link arms and sing – and welcome strangers.  Much more than sausage to eat.  Rides.  Fireworks.  Games.  Everyone in a party mood.  It’s fun, fun, fun. I was hooked on German fests then and have been to many over the years.

Stadt Bad Dürkheim, Festivals, Germany

Bad Dürkheim Festival. Photo Courtesy of Stadt Bad Dürkheim.

Like most German fests, the Bad Durkheim festival has its roots in ancient customs and traditions. Some 600 years ago it was a meeting point for local farmers and winegrowers, attracted by the pilgrims who came to the small chapel on top of the mountain “St. Michaelsberg” every year.  Centuries later the religious event became a folk festival held the 2nd and 3rd weekends in September. It takes place in the town around a giant cask, the Durkheimer Riesenfass, – the largest wine barrel in the world, which also houses a restaurant.  Bad Durkheim is in Germany’s Rhineland Palatinate, the country’s second largest wine growing region. It may be the largest, but throughout Germany’s wine regions fests in honor of the grape and its bounty abound both in tiny villages as well as major towns.  “We like visitors, parties, festivals. We like to share with others; every weekend you can find a wine fest somewhere,” vintner Martin Bercher in the village of Burkheim told me on a recent visit to Germany’s Baden wine region.

Rhineland Palatinate, Vineyard, Wine, Germany

Rhineland Palatinate Vineyard. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

That sums up a German’s attitude about festivals.  It’s in their DNA.  German friend Ortrud Hundertmark now lives in France but returns to Germany two to three times every year to attend festivals.  “If I could not go back, I would get sick,” she says.  The fests are occasions to see friends, many whom you don’t see regularly but who show up to party. “It’s being together, sometimes singing and dancing, always having fun,” she explains.

Schutzenfest, Neuss, Festivals, Germany

Schutzenfest. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Throughout the country, every town and region lays claim to distinct festivals.  Ortrud’s husband Kurt would not miss the Schutzenfest in his hometown of Neuss in northern Germany.  This marksmen’s festival held the last weekend of August every year dates back to the Middle Ages when it was military in nature. Today some  7,000 members of the Neuss’ citizens’ marksmen’s association, including Kurt, wear uniforms and march in parades and processions to carry  on their town’s ancient tradition.  There are tents with beer, music, dancing and a shooting competition. About a million visitors attend the Neuss event ever year.  Hannover also has a Schutzenfest which is even larger than the one in Neuss.

During my many years in Germany, I was a regular at the annual fests in the different towns where I lived. Darmstadt hosts the Heiner fest every summer in early July when the entire inner city is closed to traffic for five days.  Crowds pack the streets to browse the numerous stands. There are also game stands at this festival, as well as at most others, and it’s not unusual to see folks in the crowd carrying huge stuffed animals they’ve won.

Nearby Griesheim has its Zwiebelmarkt, literally onion market, held annually at the end of September. During the 16th and 17th centuries the tiny burg adjacent to Darmstadt produced wine, but after the 30 years war, produce, namely onions, replaced the grapes. Of course, the onion stars in this food fest with Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) the favorite, usually consumed with a glass of Federweisser, a type of new wine. The name translates as “feather white” referring to the milky appearance of the beverage due to suspended yeast; it is not a finished wine, but fermented freshly pressed grape juice.

Zwiebelmarkt, Onions, Onion market, Festivals, Germany

Zwiebelmarkt. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Weimar also has an onion market in early October that has been on the calendar since 1653 and all things dedicated to onions are honored.  Take home an onion souvenir – a colorful onion braid decorated with dried flowers.  Market stalls in the town center offer traditional handicraft and agricultural products.  There’s also plenty of liquid refreshment plus several stages for entertainment and music.

Fruit Column, Cannstatt Beer Festival, Germany, Festivals,

Fruit Column, Symbol of the Cannstatt Beer Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Stuttgart, where I lived for several years, may take the prize for the most fests and the biggest, too.  Its annual fall beer festival, the Cannstatter Volksfest, is the second largest after Oktoberfest, attracting millions who quaff beer in liter mugs. Founded by King Wilhelm 1 in 1818, it was originally a harvest festival and in keeping with its origins a 26-meter column of fruit towers over the fairgrounds. Lasting for 17 days, it features gargantuan beer tents sponsored by different breweries, each seating 5,000 revelers. It’s all rollicking good fun and sometimes fest goers are so moved by the ambience, they hop atop the tables and dance.  A popular food to soak up the beer is spit roasted chicken. There’s even a chicken tent, Festzelt Göckelesmaier, named after its chicken, Swabian Göckele. The mouth watering aromas of the grilled birds drift over the festival grounds. It’s hard to resist.

Cannstatt Beer Festival, Festivals, Germany, Beer,

Cannstatt Beer Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

“Volksfest has definitely been one of the highlights of my three years here in Stuttgart,” an American working for the military in Stuttgart once told me. “At first I was bit intimidated by the large crowds of people singing and standing on tables.  But I quickly discovered that everyone is really friendly, and people went out of their way to talk to me in spite of my limited language skills.  In my second year I even worked up the courage to wear a traditional dirndl, which really made me feel like one of the locals!”

Canstatter Wassen, Germany, Festivals, Fireworks, Fruit Tower

Canstatter Volksfest. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

My favorite Stuttgart festival, a bit less raucous in tone, is the Weindorf or Wine Village which is held in the town center in late summer. It features numerous vintners selling their wines and is a great way to try different vintages and indulge in some of my favorite Swabian foods. You can savor Maultaschen, succulent Swabian ravioli served in a broth or fried with onions;  Käsespätzle, Swabian noodles with cheese; and Buben Spitzle which are mini potato dumplings with sauerkraut and bacon bits.

Oktoberfest, Germany, Festivals, Beer, Munich

Munich Oktoberfest Himmel der Bayern. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

The Oktoberfest, the king of Germany’s festivals, began as a celebration of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig’s marriage to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen in 1810. It draws huge crowds, up to seven million each year, who come from all over the world. In the beer tents they link arms with locals and down German beer in liter mugs, sing, enjoy carnival rides, and munch on Bavarian specialties such as sausage and pretzels.  Costumes play a role in this Bavarian celebration with locals and visitors alike often clad in traditional garb — lederhosen for men and dirndls for women.

Bavarians love to party and celebrate beer again with the Strong Beer (Starkbier) Festival in March honoring a special brew. Monks get credit for this one. In 1651 the Paulaner brothers-of-the-cloth started brewing strong beer which they called Flüssiges Brot (liquid bread).  Thanks to the hearty brew they were able to fast for the 40 days of Lent with full bellies and in good spirits. Bavarian rulers decided the monks were on to something, and in 1751 the first public strong beer festival got underway. Today the original and biggest party is at the Paulaner “Nockherberg” brewery south of Munich. The atmosphere is very much like Oktoberfest with thousands of visitors – many in traditional Bavarian outfits – packed into a huge hall and dancing on the benches to modern and old-time German hits. Beer is served by the liter in ceramic steins called Keferloher.

On the Christian calendar the period just before Lent is traditionally a time of celebration before the somber season begins. In many parts of Germany pre-Lenten Carnival celebrations are more than festivals with huge bashes, costume balls, dances and parades over a period of a few days to several weeks before the Ash Wednesday start. Mainz, Düsseldorf, Cologne and many towns in the Black Forest hold huge parades.

Germans celebrate much more than beer, wine and food.  Music – from rock to opera – is feted at events throughout the country and the tone of the celebrations varies with the music. Rock is the focus at Rock in the Ring and Rock in the Park, two simultaneous rock music festivals held annually. The Ring festival is held in Mendig at an old airbase near Koblenz while Rock in the Park takes place in southern Germany at the Zeppelinfeld in Nuremberg. Both are usually regarded as one event with a mostly identical lineup. Combined, they are the largest music festivals held in Germany and one of the largest in the world.

Well known to opera fans is the Bayreuth Festival in the city of the same name. This festival has become a destination for lovers of the 19th-century German composer Richard Wagner.  Wagner himself conceived and promoted the idea of a special festival to showcase his works, in particular his monumental cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen and Parsifal.

Berlinale, Film Festival, Germany,

Berlinale Film Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Germany also has a noted film festival, the Berlinale, held every February when Berlin rolls out the red carpet to host the Berlin International Film Festival. More than 400 films from all over the world are shown, along with parties and special events for film lovers. Berlinale is the most important film festival in Europe after Venice and Cannes.

This is but a sampling of German festivals. Wherever you find yourself in Germany, inquire at the local tourist office about fests.  You are sure to find one and enjoy the gemütlichkeit.

I miss them terribly, having moved to France several years ago.  Sure, there are fests here, but quite disappointing compared to the gemütlich gatherings in Germany. Time and again my husband and I have headed off to a French fest only to come home missing Germany. Most festivals here have very few food stands and of course, no beer tents.  And no music.  And, no gemütlichkeit!  I might have to join my friend Ortrud soon for a few trips back to Germany each year.

www.germany.travel

For more information on the fests mentioned see the following sites.  Some are only in German.  However, if you google the name of the town and festival, you’ll find English language sites with more information.

Bad Durkheim wine festival, Sept. 9 -13 and 16-19, 2016: www.bad-duerkheim.com

Neuss Schutzenfest, Aug. 26 -30, 2016: English city site: www.neuss.de German site: www.schuetzenfest-neuss.com

Darmstadt Heinerfest, June 30 – July 4, 2016: www.darmstadt.de and fest site in German, www.darmstaedterheinerfest.de

Griesheim: www.griesheim.de

Weimar Onion Market: www.weimar.de

www.germany.travel/onion-fair

Stuttgart Volksfest, Sept. 23 – Oct. 9, 2016: www.cannstatter-volksfest.de

www.germany.travel/stuttgart-volksfest

Stuttgart Spring Festival, April 16 – May 8, 2016: www.stuttgarter-fruehlingsfest.de

Stuttgart Wine Village, Aug 24 – Sept 4, 2016: www.stuttgarter-weindorf.de

Oktoberfest, Sept. 17 – Oct. 3, 2016: www.oktoberfest.de

Munich Strong Beer Festival:  www.destination-munich.com

Rock in the Ring, June 3 -5, 2016: www.rock-am-ring.com

Rock in the Park, June 3 – 5, 2016: www.rock-im-park.com

Bayreuth Festival, July and August, 2016. See program on this site: www.bayreuther-festspiele.de

Berlinale (Berlin Film Festival), Feb. 11 – 21, 2016:  www.berlinale.de

www.germany.travel/berlinale

Germany’s Merry Christmas: Markets and More

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My nose led me to the oven, heavenly aromas wafting from behind its doors.   Something delicious was baking and I had to have a taste.  I was in Dresden at the Striezelmarkt, the city’s Christmas market, and it was Stollen, a rich buttery cake with dried fruit, nuts and spices, turning golden inside the outdoor oven. Master Baker Joachim Winkler was rolling another batch of dough as spectators watched the creation of Dresden’s famous holiday cake. Best of all, there were free samples.

Christstollen cake from Dresden

Christstollen cake from Dresden. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

That was many years ago.  I lived in Germany then and sought out holiday markets every December. Major cities, like Dresden, usually have them in various locations. However, Christmas markets in smaller towns, while perhaps not as grand, are equally enticing. I enjoyed them all. The tradition of pre-Christmas markets originated in Germany as trade fairs in the late Middle Ages.  These days the custom has spread throughout the world with Christmas markets on the calendar in numerous countries.  But, Germany has the best.

I especially miss going to the markets late day.  In December when dark descends they are captivating scenes with twinkling lights sparkling on tinsel and gilded ornaments.  If snow falls, it’s enchanting. People wrapped in heavy winter coats and woolen scarves pack the market square to eye the merchandise displayed at stalls decorated with swaths of fir and pine. Everything from holiday decorations to handicrafts, from mittens to furry slippers, is for sale.  And, in addition to Stollen, other delicious treats stir the appetite:  grilled sausages and spicy cookies washed down with a nip of Glühwein or “glowing wine,” a mulled wine served hot. “A Christmas market without Glühwein, there is no such thing,” says my German friend Ortrud. Traditionally made with red wine, today you can find white varieties, as well as versions with liqueurs for an extra kick. It is usually served in souvenir mugs which you can purchase.

Food is my favorite part of Christmas markets.  Be it in Stuttgart, which is one of Germany’s largest markets, or Nuremberg, possibly the most romantic, or Dresden or any small town, there’s nothing quite like warming up in winter with a little Glühwein and savoring a grilled bratwurst as church bells toll and children sing carols.  Move on to another stand for more Glühwein and a healthy portion of Schupfnudeln (potato dumplings with sauerkraut) or a Linseneintopf (a thick soup of lentils) and Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes).  It’s a unique and thoroughly German culinary experience that is scrumptious.

Christmas markets are just one of many holiday traditions in Germany and with Stollen and holiday cookies topping the to-eat list, Germans tend to begin their holiday baking in late November. While everyone, not just Dresden’s residents, indulges in that luscious cake, fewer are making it at home these days.  It’s time consuming, and, as Ortrud says, the ones you can buy at the bakery are just as good.

Nuremberg - Nuremberg lebkuchen

Nuremberg Lebkuchen: Germany’s spicy treat. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Cookies are another matter, however, and we’re not referring to a few chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies.  Most Germans typically bake about eight different kinds of cookies.  Ortrud, who admits she overdoes it, makes about 15 varieties! Lebkuchen are a must.  These dark, spicy cookies which originated in Nuremberg 600 years ago are made with seven different spices. Holiday cookies are consumed throughout Advent, the pre-Christmas season that begins on the fourth Sunday before Christmas day, this year on November 29.

In addition to the delectable foods and Glühwein, there are other beverages associated with the season. Feurerzangenbowle, a flaming punch, often appears at Advent gatherings.  A pure sugar cone soaked in rum is set aflame over a punch bowl of spiced red wine.  The melted sugar and rum drip into the wine for a concoction guaranteed to warm the spirits. Of course, the Germans also have a special Christmas beer, Weihnachtsbier, a strong brew for December’s shorter days and chilly temperatures which makes its appearance at the beginning of Advent.

Almost every home has an Advent wreath of greens with four candles often placed in the center of the dining table.  On each of four Sundays leading up to Christmas, one of the candles is lit, so that by Christmas all four are burning.  The lighting ceremony is usually part of a Sunday afternoon coffee and cake ritual – a tradition with or without candles – which many Germans practice year round.  During Advent in many homes it’s an occasion to sing Christmas carols.

Advent calendars are popular with children. The original ones had little windows, one for each day before Christmas, with Biblical motifs behind them.  A new window was opened each day counting down to Christmas day.  Today, little bits of chocolate can be found behind the windows replacing the religious scenes. December 6, Saint Nicholas Day, is a big event for German children.  On the night before, they put a shoe or hang a stocking in front of their doors. If they’ve been good, the next morning it will be filled with fruits, candy and small gifts from Saint Nicholas. But, the legendary saint doesn’t make his trek from house to house alone.  Knecht Ruprecht, a sinister figure who strikes terror in any mischievous child, accompanies him.  He puts a twig or piece of coal in the shoes or stockings of naughty children.

Schlitz - Christmas market with Christmas tree and stalls in front of half-timbered houses and the largest ''advent candle'' in the world, the wrapped keep, evening

Schlitz:  Christmas market with the largest ”advent candle” in the world. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

The Alsatians take credit for the first Christmas tree, traced back to the 17th century, and the tradition quickly spread to neighboring Germany. In the not too distant past, many Germans decorated their tree with real candles, usually of beeswax. The scent of the melting wax and fresh pine is heavenly and the soft, flickering glow beats anything provided by electric lights. I went native for my first Christmas in Germany long ago and decorated with real candles, lit only on Christmas Eve.  I kept a pail of water by the tree and monitored it while the candles burned.  It was magical but it is risky. As Ortrud says, “Too many trees have burned.  We have electric lights now.” Perhaps no more real candles, but definitely real trees.  Germans are not into anything artificial.  The Nuremberg angel, Rauschgoldenengel, which can be found at Christmas markets throughout the country, often crowns the tree. Exquisite angel dolls usually have long flowing blond hair and are dressed in gowns of velvet, satin or gilded paper. According to legend, the doll was created by a heartbroken toymaker after an angel who looked like his deceased daughter appeared to him in a dream. There is a giant version that -hovers over the entrance to the Nuremberg Christmas market.

In addition to the tree, other traditional decorations are often found in German homes. The pyramid, a tall rotating candelabrum, is a favorite. Hand-carved wooden figures on multi levels are interspersed with candles.  When lit, the heat sets the various levels turning, its figures spinning round and round. Towering over the market in Dresden, in addition to a giant Christmas tree, is a gargantuan pyramid — but illuminated with electric lights.

Christmas tree decorations

Christmas tree traditions. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Woodcarvers in the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains) region make the mobile decorations, as well as other beautiful hand-carved items such as smokers (figures that blow smoke from incense cubes) and nutcrackers, which are famous throughout Germany. All of these objects are also for sale at Christmas markets.

Christmas Eve dinner is special and varies within the different regions. Carp is a favorite in many places. In Hamburg, it’s usually herring salad with fried potatoes, while in the Rhineland they dine on sausages and potato salad.  Most Germans go to church, either before or after dinner, and open presents on this special night. Come Christmas Day, in all parts of the country, many sit down to a dinner of roast goose. But, that too is changing, with turkey replacing goose in many homes and as Christmas falls during hunting season, some enjoy wild boar or venison.

The entire holiday season in Germany, from the beginning of Advent to the Feast of the Epiphany, Jan. 6, the official end of the season when most Germans take down their tree, is full of enchantment, excitement and joy.  From spicy cookies and “glowing” wine to festive markets, it is a living “old fashioned Christmas” from the pages of storybooks.  According to an old saying, “Germany without Christmas wouldn’t be Germany.”  I might add, “You haven’t experienced a real Christmas until you have experienced a German Christmas.

Highlights of the Markets

The holiday season officially gets underway on the first Sunday of Advent, Nov. 29, but many Christmas markets are open for business earlier.  Most close on Christmas Eve. Many feature more than stands selling all sorts of merchandise and edible treats. Bands, concerts, puppet shows, parades, craft demonstrations and more are additional enhancements to the festive

Highlights of the Markets

The holiday season officially gets underway on the first Sunday of Advent, Nov. 29, but many Christmas markets are open for business earlier.  And, many feature more than stands selling all sorts of merchandise and edible treats. Bands, concerts, puppet shows, parades, craft demonstrations and more are additional enhancements to the festive markets.  Don’t neglect the small towns. While many of their markets are only open on weekends, they’re usually less crowded, and equally enchanting.

Nuremberg - Christmas decorations at the Christmas market

Nuremberg Christmas decorations at the Christmas market. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

The market in Nuremberg, considered the most romantic, is the country’s most famous.  It is called the Christkindlesmarkt, or Christ child market.  During the time of Martin Luther, children received their gifts (not just small gifts as is the common practice today) on December 6th, St. Nicolas Day. Luther, however, was not a fan of venerating saints and saint’s days, so he started the practice of giving gifts on Christmas Eve, telling his children that the gifts came from “Holy Christ.”   This custom became popular with Lutheran families, and then spread to others.

At the market you’ll find the city’s tasty cookies, Lebkuchen, in every size and with different icings like chocolate, sugar or even strawberry. They are also sold in beautiful tin boxes. Another Nuremberg special now also found at many other markets is Zwetschgenmännlein (prune men), elfin figures made of dried prunes, figs and nuts. The Christkindlesmarkt is open from Nov. 27 to Dec. 24.

Dresden, where Stollen originated, hosted its first Christmas market in 1434, with its name, Striezelmarkt, referring to Stollen.  “Striezel” is a Middle High German word for the cake, and also refers to the long, oval shape of the pastry which it’s said symbolizes the infant Jesus in swaddling clothes.  Packages of original Dresdener Stollen even bear an official seal.  Numerous market stands, as well as bakeries in the city, do a booming business with the tasty cake.  The giant wooden pyramid towering over the market, listed in the Guinness Book of Records, is 45-feet tall with carved figures on its multi-levels.  The market is open from Nov. 26 to Dec. 24.

Dresden - Striezelmarkt Christmas market

Dresden “Striezelmarkt” Christmas market. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Berlin, Germany’s largest city, tops the list with the most Christmas markets – 60 in all.  Near the Potsdamer Platz market is an ice skating rink as well as the Winter World with a toboggan run. The markets are open from Nov. 23 to Dec. 27.

Originating in 1393, Frankfurt’s market is the oldest of Germany’s Christmas markets and one of the most beautiful with its historic Römer, Town Hall, as the backdrop for numerous festive stalls.  Musical events are scheduled throughout the market, including trumpet players on the balcony of St. Nikolai church.  Frankfurt’s market is scheduled from Nov. 23 to Dec. 22.

Munich - Christmas market by the city hall. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Munich – Christmas market by the city hall. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

In Munich, the main Christmas market is at the Marienplatz with its historic town hall. Concerts from the building’s balcony are a favorite, and Bavarian products are a market specialty:  wood carvings from Oberammergau, glassware from the Bavarian Forest, Lebkuchen from Nuremberg and more. Munich’s market is open from Nov. 25 to Dec. 24.

For a complete listing of Germany’s Christmas markets visit www.germany.travel/christmas.

Marvels of the Midi-Pyrénéés

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The marks recording the young boy’s height etched on the walls of the medieval chateau stopped at 1 meter 52 (4 feet 9 inches).  The famous post-impressionist painter, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, had spent summers in the chateau as a child and at age 14, after two falls resulting in broken legs which never healed properly, he stopped growing.  He developed an adult sized torso, but his legs remained child sized. Unable to participate in sports, he immersed himself in art. This year marks the 150th anniversary of the birth of the artist whose cabaret posters have become synonymous with Paris and Montmartre, the neighborhood famous for its bohemian lifestyle and the haunt of artists, writers, and philosophers in the late 1800s.

Chateau, France, Henri de Toulouse - Lautrec, Pyrenees

Chateau du Bosc (where Toulouse-Lautrec spent summers as a child)

During a tour of Chateau du Bosc in the Midi-Pyrénées region of southwestern France, I learned much more about Lautrec.  Nicole-Berangere Tapie de Celeyran, 89, a distant cousin of the artist, loves guiding visitors through her home. Tiny, frail, and slightly hunchbacked, she charges up the long staircases with the vitality of a teenager. I followed her from the kitchen where she pointed out Lautrec’s sketches on the wall, upstairs to a lavish salon and dining room, a bedroom, hallways, and then into the garden. “I love to talk.  I want to preserve this house, the spirit of the family,” she says. She also wants to show Lautrec mementoes and correct misconceptions about the legendary artist.

 Nicole-Berangere Tapie de Celeyran, France, Pyrenees, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Mme. Nicole-Berangere Tapie de Celeyran showing Toulouse-Lautrec sketches

She embellishes the tour with stories passed on from her grandmother and other ancestors who knew the artist. Lautrec’s father and uncles often went hunting.  They’d come back after an outing and relate tales of their adventures.  Lautrec would sit on the floor and use the coal from the fireplace to make drawings of their exploits, she said. In his bedroom, the floor scattered with toys, she points out a boat Lautrec had made after one of his accidents.

 

It was all fascinating, especially as told by this delightful and amazing woman, and perfect background for a visit to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum in the nearby town, Albi, where Lautrec was born in 1864. He became an alcoholic and died at the age of 37 due to complications of alcoholism and syphilis. More than 1,000 of his works – paintings, lithographs, drawings and the famous posters — are on display in the museum which has the largest collection of his works in the world. “What is important in a painting is the person.  Landscape is secondary.  That was his philosophy,” a museum guide recounts.  He painted psychological portraits and he understood advertising, hence the posters, she continues.

 

Albi, perched on the banks of the Tarn River spanned by an ancient bridge, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the spires of its mighty cathedral dominate the skyline. It almost seems too picture-perfect. The cathedral, Sainte Cécile, is the only one in France that is still in its original condition, the 15th century painted walls still visible today. During the Middle Ages, churches were painted although the paint on most has long since vanished. It has survived here because the cathedral is very dark.

Tarn River, France, Albi, ancient bridge, Cathedral

Albi

Another curious if not incredible attraction is Albi’s Museum of Miniatures.  It houses 55 miniature rooms all made by a 79-year-old woman who started the project 40 years ago.  As a child she wanted a dollhouse, but she never got one.  So, at the age of 39 she set out to make her own, room by room.  The museum curator told us that it takes her from six months to a year to make one room.  She is now busy making a miniature church.

Museum of Miniatures, France, Albi, Pyrenees

Toulouse-Lautrec Museum

Albi and its sights were just one of many places I visited recently while exploring the Midi-Pyrénées region along with Toulouse, Rodez and Conques. The latter was my favorite and it’s easy to understand why it was named one of the “plus beaux villages de France,” (most beautiful villages in France).  The tiny burg of half-timbered houses and Romanesque fountains is nestled in a valley surrounded by green. Its Romanesque Abbey Church is magnificent – and quite an experience. Every evening at 9:30 p.m. during the summer, Jean Daniel, a Benedictine monk, pounds away on a powerful organ while visitors walk around the upper galleries of the immense structure. Spotlights grow dim and then brighter, highlighting the 250 sculpted capitals atop the gallery columns. Shadows move. The sounds are not somber church music, in fact, nothing like it.  During my visit The House of the Rising Sun was the monk’s selection and it made for a sound and light show like no other.

 

The church’s roots go back to the eighth century when a Benedictine monastery was established at the site in the wilderness. Relics were needed to give the new monastery clout.  In the ninth century one monk set off to Agen and came back with part of the skull of Saint Foy, a Christian who had been martyred in the town in 303 A.D.  Miracles were soon attributed to the relic, and Conques became a pilgrimage site, a holy place to visit on the road to Santiago de Compostela, the well-known pilgrimage destination in northwestern Spain where the remains of St. James are said to be buried.

Conques Abbey Church, France, Pyrenees

Pilgrims in Conques enroute to Santiago de Compostela

Every year about 13,000 pilgrims make the visit to Conques, a town with just 90 year-round residents. Most visit the treasury as well as the church. Lavish, bejeweled gold and silver reliquaries are displayed in glass cases.  The most elaborate is said to enclose the foreskin of Christ.  “How do you know it’s the foreskin of Christ?” asked a doubting visitor.  “I don’t know.  I was not present at the circumcision,” quipped the guide.

Conques Abbey Church, France, Pyrenees, Church

Romanesque Abbey Church in Conques

The Conques Abbey Church has another attraction – windows designed by the French contemporary artist Pierre Soulages.  These bear no resemblance to the usual stained glass windows found in most churches, but were designed to let light penetrate the grandiose yet somber structure. The Soulages windows, made up of geometric shapes of glass of varying density, change color depending on the exterior light. Soulages was born in 1919 in Rodez, a Midi- Pyrénées town now a must for contemporary art fans.  In May, the Soulages Museum opened with some 500 works of the renowned abstract artist who is known for his devotion to the color black.

 

Toulouse, France’s fourth largest city known as the European capital of aeronautics and the home of Airbus, is the capital of the Midi-Pyrénées region.  This university city which is often called the “ville rose” (pink city) due to the bricks produced here and used in the construction of many of its buildings, is vibrant and attractive with magnificent churches, lively markets and excellent restaurants. Saint Sernin Basilica, the largest complex of Romanesque buildings in the world, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site because it was a major stop en route to Santiago de Compostela.  The Jacobin Monastery, stark on the outside, is a marvel inside with famous and unique palm tree arches.  Another World Heritage site is the Canal du Midi which flows through Toulouse connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean.  The city on the banks of the Garonne River has several noted museums, including the Augustins, a fine arts museum with sculptures and paintings by famous names of the art world, including Rubens, Delacroix and Corot.  Those who prefer airplanes to art will want to tour the Airbus plant facilities where the world’s largest airplane is now under construction. Tours of two different Concordes are also available.

Toulouse, France, Pink City, City, Ville Rose

Toulouse, city center.

Foie gras, the fattened liver of force fed geese and ducks, may be controversial, but it’s an exquisite treat and the star of the cuisine of southwestern France. It’s found on many restaurant menus in Toulouse, as well as throughout the Midi- Pyrénées.  Toulouse is best known for its sausage and the regional dish, cassoulet, a hearty stew of meats and beans. Among its wonderful restaurants are several which have earned coveted Michelin stars. The town has several markets, all fun for foodies.

Food, France

Cassoulet

The area code for France is 33. 

 

Where to Stay:

Hotel Mercure Albi Bastides – The banks of the Tarn is the perfect location for admiring – and photographing – Albi.  This hotel, classified as a historic monument, was previously a water mill.  Its riverside terrace is ideal for outdoor dining.  Moulins Albigeois, 41 rue Porta, 8100 Albi; + 33 (0) 5 63 47 66 66; www.mercure.com/Albi

The Hotel Restaurant Hervé Busset – Located in a wooded setting on the banks of the lively Dourdou River just outside Conques, and a true delight. An old mill was transformed into an inn with a lovely riverside terrace for relaxing and/or dining.  The interior contemporary décor is a perfect complement to the old schist stone.  And, the food is fabulous. Busset has earned one Michelin star with his cuisine which makes use of plants and flowers from his garden. Domaine de Cambelong, 12320 Conques; +33 (0)5 65 72 83 91; www.moulindecambelong.com

Hotel Mercure Rodez Cathedral – The center of town offers the perfect location for visiting Rodez, the cathedral and the Soulages museum.  The walls of the bar are decorated with scenes of Venice painted by Maurice Bompard. 1 avenue Victor Hugo, 12000 Rodez; +33 (0)5 65 68 55 19; www.mercure.com/Rodez

Location, Location, Location – Toulouse’s Grand Hotel de l’Opera can’t be beat.  Facing the heart of the town, the Place du Capitole, the charming boutique hotel is located in a former convent of the 17th century.  The luxurious rooms are decorated in red Opera or yellow sun.  1 Place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0) 61 21 82 66; www.grand-hotel-opera.com/uk

 

Where to Eat:

Le Clos Sainte Cécile – For a delightful meal under ancient plane trees, this is the right place.  The restaurant in a former school is fifth generation family owned. 3 Rue du Castelviel, 81000 Albi; + 33 (0)5 63 38 19 74

Café Bras – Located in Rodez’s Soulages Museum, it features cuisine by the noted chef, Michel Bras, who has earned three Michelin stars with his other restaurants.  Both fine dining and bistro style food are available, with a lunch special for museum visitors. Musée Soulages, Jardin du Foirail, Avenue Victor Hugo, 12000 Rodez; +33 (0)5 65 68 06 70; www.cafebras.fr

Michel Sarran – In Toulouse, the noted chef Michel Sarran has earned two Michelin stars with his eponymous restaurant.  The first floor dining room features chic and elegant modern décor.  The tasting menu is amazing, many savory, labor-intensive delicacies served in small portions – each worthy of a photograph.  21 Boulevard Armand Duportal, 31000 Toulouse; +33 (0)5 61 12 32 32; www.michel-sarran.com

Emile – At this restaurant in Toulouse, Chef Christophe Fazan specializes in both local and creative cuisine.  Located on the bustling Place Saint George, it’s a Toulouse favorite. 13 Place Saint Georges, 31000 Toulouse; +333 (0)5 61 21 05 56; www.restaurant-emile.com

 

What to See and Do:

Chateau du Bosc – Located in Naucelle, 30 minutes by car from Albi.  Madame Tapie de Celeyran gives guided tours in French. English speaking tour guides who know all about Lautrec are also available. Tours are given year round from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m.   If you visit, you’re sure to meet Madame who loves to welcome visitors.   + 33  (0) 5 65 69 20 83

Museum Toulouse-Lautrec – Palais de la Berbie, Albi ; +33 (0)5 63 49 48 70 ; www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com

Museum of Miniatures – 16 Rue Rinaldi, Albi; +33 (0)5 63 79 00 98; www.academiedesminiatures.fr

Soulages Museum – Jardin du Foirail, Avenue Victor Hugo, Rodez ; +33 (0)5 65 73 82 60; www.musee-soulages.grand-rodez.com

La Cité de l’espace – Explore the secrets of the universe and outer space in this unique park with a giant screen IMAX movie theater, planetarium, simulators, space crafts and children’s entertainment. Parc de la Plaine, Avenue Jean Gonord, Toulouse; +33 (0)5 67 22 23 24; www.cite-espace.com

Airbus, Village Aéroconstellation – Take a day trip from Toulouse to visit. Three itineraries are offered: Tour of the Airbus 380 assembly plant, bus trip to Airbus sites and/or an environment focused tour.  Rue Franz-Joseph-Strauss, 31700 Blagnac; +33 (0)5 34 39 42 00; www.manatour.fr

Tanah Merah Resort and Gallery

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tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

A stay at Tanah Merah was a highlight of a visit to Ubud, Bali, several years ago. This secluded boutique hotel in a luxuriant tropical setting is the perfect place to chill out.  Like much of Bali, there is something mystical about it so I knew I’d return.  I did exactly that recently with my husband and it was idyllic.  Tanah Merah (red earth), located four kilometers outside of Ubud, is the realization of a dream for Peter Bloch, the Danish dentist who created this haven of tranquility.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

He bought the land on a cliff above the Petanu River Gorge and began construction in 2000.  There are now 17 rooms, including individual cottages and luxurious villas.  The latter have private plunge pools, some with waterfalls.  During both visits, we had a deluxe studio with two canopied king-sized beds, private terrace and enormous bathroom with a gleaming copper tub.  Bloch, who designed all the rooms himself, did not scrimp on the bathrooms – all lavish and spacious.  Fascinating art objects and paintings from his private collection add elegance to the guest rooms.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

Collecting is the jovial Dane’s passion.  “I am constantly collecting.  It’s terrible. It’s a disease,” he says.  He opened a museum at the resort, nine rooms, each behind heavy, elaborately carved wooden doors, and all underground in a temperature-controlled environment.  The contents, priceless, amazing and unusual objects, include paintings, weavings, objects of gold, daggers, masks and carved furniture. From Europe, there’s his mother’s dining room recreated from furnishings from the family home in Denmark, complete with a lavish table setting.  A museum guided tour is fascinating.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Tanah Merah. Photo Leah Larkin

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Balinese God Statue

Bloch, who speaks numerous languages, likes to mingle with his guests.  He knows every crevice in Bali and is a wealth of information about what to see and do. Excursions with resort drivers can be arranged, however, it will be hard to tear yourself away from this hidden paradise where the many stone statues of gods and spirits add to the almost spiritual, enchanting ambience.  Young Balinese women clad in vibrant sarongs place fresh offerings of flowers at the statues each morning.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Photo Leah Larkin

The resort’s grounds are expansive. Steps lead up and down a verdant hillside with colorful blossoms and lush foliage and there’s an infinity pool at the edge of a cliff with fabulous views of the surroundings.  The property is serenely private and you rarely see other guests.  On many occasions I had the pool to myself. Float in the water, gaze up at the sky and greenery all around, and listen to chirping birds and other creatures.  It’s magical.  For an authentic jungle experience, descend a steep flight of steps to the river and swim in a pool under a waterfall – a scene out of a Tarzan movie.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Photo Leah Larkin

ubud, anah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Ubud, Bali

I’m not a big fan of massages, but the one I had at Tanah Merah during my first stay was the best ever. Fortunately the same masseuse is still there, and her technique is still fabulous. Breakfasts, the hearty English kind with bacon and eggs, as well as fresh fruit and croissants, are the perfect way to start the day, served either at the alfresco restaurant Petanu, down the hillside amidst the jungle greenery or on your private terrace or balcony.  Another open-air restaurant overlooking a lovely pool where noisy frogs thrive serves lunch and dinner.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Hindu Ceremony in Bali

The town of Ubud with shops, restaurants and a bustling market, is about a 15-minute drive from the resort.  Tanah Merah offers guests free shuttle service.

“We are different from other hotels,” said Tanah Merah marketing manager Herman Nto.  “We have a great atmosphere and we treat guests like family.”

We were so happy to be part of that family once again.

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Balinese God Statue

 

Tanah Merah Art Resort

tanah merah, bali, luxurious resorts in Bali, where to stay in Bali, what to do in Bali

Jalan Melayang

Ubud, Bali, Indonesia.

Tel: +62 361 898 7952 | +62 361 898 7954

Fax: +62 361 898 7853

Email : info@tanahmerahbali.com

www.tanahmerahbali.com

Revolutionary French Frigate Hermione Sails to U.S.

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Replica of historic ship commemorates epic voyage

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille - Association Hermione La Fayette

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille – Association Hermione La Fayette

Thank you, French President Francois Hollande.  You and your entourage stole my place on the magnificent French frigate, the Hermione, which is now en route to the U.S. from France.  I, along with several other journalists, had been scheduled to board and tour the ship; even have lunch with the crew, before its departure to Yorktown, Va.  But, at the last minute you decided to board and bid farewell to the crew.  We were bumped – and bummed out. C’est la vie!

The ship that I missed touring is a replica of the original Hermione, a French warship that ferried Marquis de Lafayette across the Atlantic in 1780 to help General George Washington and the rebels in the fight for American independence.

The “new” Hermione is now duplicating that voyage of 235 years ago. Craftsmen, artisans and technicians have worked for more than 15 years on a reconstruction of the legendary ship.  Completed in 2012, the replica Hermione looks every inch like an authentic tall ship.  Throughout June and early July it will stop at  different ports on the U.S. and Canada’s eastern sea coast (See schedule below), before returning to its home port in Rochefort, France,  in August where it will be open to visitors.

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille - Association Hermione La Fayette

Hermione. Photo: Francis Latreille – Association Hermione La Fayette

Mark Jensen, 57, is one of three lucky Americans who were chosen to be among the crew of 80.  I did not get to meet him, but I spoke to him on the phone. “It’s a dream come true for me….It’s very exciting.  We are remaking history,” he said.  Jensen, who has been working on ships since the age of 12, now has a sailboat in New York City which he charters.  “I am looking forward to bringing back to life the story and friendship between Washington and Lafayette, their deep desire for the freedom of individuals,” he said.

While it was disappointing not to board the ship, it was thrilling to see the splendid three-masted frigate, the French flag fluttering from its stern,  anchored off-shore the tiny island of Aix the evening before its departure. Trying for a closer view, all sizes and types of smaller craft surrounded the proud and regal vessel as if paying honor to royalty.  On shore a TV crew set up amidst lots of admirers with cameras.  Dismal skies did not dampen the excitement.

The original Hermione was equipped with dozens of cannons and could cross the Atlantic in two months.  A small group of French enthusiasts spent two decades planning and fundraising for its replica.  Construction started in the dry dock at Rochefort in 1997 and dragged on for 15 years due to costs.  Money had to be raised while construction was underway.  The end product: an almost perfect replica with complicated rigging, multiple sails, impressive paintwork on the hull and numerous other genuine details.

Hermione. Photo: David Compain

Hermione. Photo: David Compain

Of course, it’s not an exact replica.  “I would say that we have achieved an unprecedented level of authenticity, but we still had to conform to modern health and safety legislation and there are fixed requirements for vessels wanting permission to sail across the Atlantic,”  the ship’s captain, Yann Cariou,  told a reporter for the newspaper, Connexion. For example, the cannons are lightweight and non-functional.  The rigging is made of traditional hemp, but the sails are synthetic which makes them stronger and easier to handle.  Steel has replaced rope for the anchor cable.

On that legendary voyage in 1780, the Hermione had a crew of between 200 and 240.  It took 70 sailors just to raise the anchor.  Lafayette was content. “She sails like a bird,” he said.

Fifty-six members of the current crew of 80 are volunteers, with one third being women.  All had to achieve fitness levels required to climb the rigging and manage the sails in all weather conditions.

You can track the Hermione’s progress with a series of videos and webinars at facebook.com/hermione.voyage and at the official site, hermione2015.com

Hermione’s East Coast schedule:

Yorktown, Va., June 5 – 7

Mount Vernon, Va., June 9

Alexandria, Va., June 10, 11

Annapolis, Md., June 15 – 17

Baltimore, Md., June 19 – 20

Fort Mifflin, Pa.,   June 25

Philadelphia, Pa., June 26 – 28

New York City, July 2 – 4

Greenport, NY, July 6, 7

Newport, RI, July 8, 9

Boston, Mass., July 11, 12

Castine, Maine, July 14, 15

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, July 18

The ship will be back in Rochefort on August 16.

Germany’s Fun Festivals

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Germans sure know how to throw a party.  Fun festivals with oom-pah bands, beer, wine, sausages plus all sorts of tasty edibles — and plenty of gemütlichkeit.  There really is no accurate translation for this word which describes the jolly ambience and lively spirit that is the essence of these celebrations. There’s even a toast to gemütlichkeit, “Ein Prosit, Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit” sung over and over at fests as folks raise their mugs, steins or glasses. Munich’s Oktoberfest is known the world over, but there’s so much more.  One source claims there are 10,000 different fests in Germany every year celebrating beer, wine, sausage, onions, garlic, music, dance, saints, holidays; the list goes on.

Many, many years ago shortly after moving to Germany I joined friends to take in the wine fest in the town of Bad Durkheim on Germany’s Wine Road.  Its proper name is the Durkheimer Wurstmarkt, literally sausage market, yet it is the world’s largest wine festival with some 600,000 visitors every year. I was overwhelmed.  Wine is served in large half liter glasses. Rousing music. Long tables in tents where folks link arms and sing – and welcome strangers.  Much more than sausage to eat.  Rides.  Fireworks.  Games.  Everyone in a party mood.  It’s fun, fun, fun. I was hooked on German fests then and have been to many over the years.

Stadt Bad Dürkheim, Festivals, Germany

Bad Dürkheim Festival. Photo Courtesy of Stadt Bad Dürkheim.

Like most German fests, the Bad Durkheim festival has its roots in ancient customs and traditions. Some 600 years ago it was a meeting point for local farmers and winegrowers, attracted by the pilgrims who came to the small chapel on top of the mountain “St. Michaelsberg” every year.  Centuries later the religious event became a folk festival held the 2nd and 3rd weekends in September. It takes place in the town around a giant cask, the Durkheimer Riesenfass, – the largest wine barrel in the world, which also houses a restaurant.  Bad Durkheim is in Germany’s Rhineland Palatinate, the country’s second largest wine growing region. It may be the largest, but throughout Germany’s wine regions fests in honor of the grape and its bounty abound both in tiny villages as well as major towns.  “We like visitors, parties, festivals. We like to share with others; every weekend you can find a wine fest somewhere,” vintner Martin Bercher in the village of Burkheim told me on a recent visit to Germany’s Baden wine region.

Rhineland Palatinate, Vineyard, Wine, Germany

Rhineland Palatinate Vineyard. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

That sums up a German’s attitude about festivals.  It’s in their DNA.  German friend Ortrud Hundertmark now lives in France but returns to Germany two to three times every year to attend festivals.  “If I could not go back, I would get sick,” she says.  The fests are occasions to see friends, many whom you don’t see regularly but who show up to party. “It’s being together, sometimes singing and dancing, always having fun,” she explains.

Schutzenfest, Neuss, Festivals, Germany

Schutzenfest. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Throughout the country, every town and region lays claim to distinct festivals.  Ortrud’s husband Kurt would not miss the Schutzenfest in his hometown of Neuss in northern Germany.  This marksmen’s festival held the last weekend of August every year dates back to the Middle Ages when it was military in nature. Today some  7,000 members of the Neuss’ citizens’ marksmen’s association, including Kurt, wear uniforms and march in parades and processions to carry  on their town’s ancient tradition.  There are tents with beer, music, dancing and a shooting competition. About a million visitors attend the Neuss event ever year.  Hannover also has a Schutzenfest which is even larger than the one in Neuss.

During my many years in Germany, I was a regular at the annual fests in the different towns where I lived. Darmstadt hosts the Heiner fest every summer in early July when the entire inner city is closed to traffic for five days.  Crowds pack the streets to browse the numerous stands. There are also game stands at this festival, as well as at most others, and it’s not unusual to see folks in the crowd carrying huge stuffed animals they’ve won.

Nearby Griesheim has its Zwiebelmarkt, literally onion market, held annually at the end of September. During the 16th and 17th centuries the tiny burg adjacent to Darmstadt produced wine, but after the 30 years war, produce, namely onions, replaced the grapes. Of course, the onion stars in this food fest with Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) the favorite, usually consumed with a glass of Federweisser, a type of new wine. The name translates as “feather white” referring to the milky appearance of the beverage due to suspended yeast; it is not a finished wine, but fermented freshly pressed grape juice.

Zwiebelmarkt, Onions, Onion market, Festivals, Germany

Zwiebelmarkt. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Weimar also has an onion market in early October that has been on the calendar since 1653 and all things dedicated to onions are honored.  Take home an onion souvenir – a colorful onion braid decorated with dried flowers.  Market stalls in the town center offer traditional handicraft and agricultural products.  There’s also plenty of liquid refreshment plus several stages for entertainment and music.

Fruit Column, Cannstatt Beer Festival, Germany, Festivals,

Fruit Column, Symbol of the Cannstatt Beer Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Stuttgart, where I lived for several years, may take the prize for the most fests and the biggest, too.  Its annual fall beer festival, the Cannstatter Volksfest, is the second largest after Oktoberfest, attracting millions who quaff beer in liter mugs. Founded by King Wilhelm 1 in 1818, it was originally a harvest festival and in keeping with its origins a 26-meter column of fruit towers over the fairgrounds. Lasting for 17 days, it features gargantuan beer tents sponsored by different breweries, each seating 5,000 revelers. It’s all rollicking good fun and sometimes fest goers are so moved by the ambience, they hop atop the tables and dance.  A popular food to soak up the beer is spit roasted chicken. There’s even a chicken tent, Festzelt Göckelesmaier, named after its chicken, Swabian Göckele. The mouth watering aromas of the grilled birds drift over the festival grounds. It’s hard to resist.

Cannstatt Beer Festival, Festivals, Germany, Beer,

Cannstatt Beer Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

“Volksfest has definitely been one of the highlights of my three years here in Stuttgart,” an American working for the military in Stuttgart once told me. “At first I was bit intimidated by the large crowds of people singing and standing on tables.  But I quickly discovered that everyone is really friendly, and people went out of their way to talk to me in spite of my limited language skills.  In my second year I even worked up the courage to wear a traditional dirndl, which really made me feel like one of the locals!”

Canstatter Wassen, Germany, Festivals, Fireworks, Fruit Tower

Canstatter Volksfest. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

My favorite Stuttgart festival, a bit less raucous in tone, is the Weindorf or Wine Village which is held in the town center in late summer. It features numerous vintners selling their wines and is a great way to try different vintages and indulge in some of my favorite Swabian foods. You can savor Maultaschen, succulent Swabian ravioli served in a broth or fried with onions;  Käsespätzle, Swabian noodles with cheese; and Buben Spitzle which are mini potato dumplings with sauerkraut and bacon bits.

Oktoberfest, Germany, Festivals, Beer, Munich

Munich Oktoberfest Himmel der Bayern. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

The Oktoberfest, the king of Germany’s festivals, began as a celebration of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig’s marriage to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen in 1810. It draws huge crowds, up to seven million each year, who come from all over the world. In the beer tents they link arms with locals and down German beer in liter mugs, sing, enjoy carnival rides, and munch on Bavarian specialties such as sausage and pretzels.  Costumes play a role in this Bavarian celebration with locals and visitors alike often clad in traditional garb — lederhosen for men and dirndls for women.

Bavarians love to party and celebrate beer again with the Strong Beer (Starkbier) Festival in March honoring a special brew. Monks get credit for this one. In 1651 the Paulaner brothers-of-the-cloth started brewing strong beer which they called Flüssiges Brot (liquid bread).  Thanks to the hearty brew they were able to fast for the 40 days of Lent with full bellies and in good spirits. Bavarian rulers decided the monks were on to something, and in 1751 the first public strong beer festival got underway. Today the original and biggest party is at the Paulaner “Nockherberg” brewery south of Munich. The atmosphere is very much like Oktoberfest with thousands of visitors – many in traditional Bavarian outfits – packed into a huge hall and dancing on the benches to modern and old-time German hits. Beer is served by the liter in ceramic steins called Keferloher.

On the Christian calendar the period just before Lent is traditionally a time of celebration before the somber season begins. In many parts of Germany pre-Lenten Carnival celebrations are more than festivals with huge bashes, costume balls, dances and parades over a period of a few days to several weeks before the Ash Wednesday start. Mainz, Düsseldorf, Cologne and many towns in the Black Forest hold huge parades.

Germans celebrate much more than beer, wine and food.  Music – from rock to opera – is feted at events throughout the country and the tone of the celebrations varies with the music. Rock is the focus at Rock in the Ring and Rock in the Park, two simultaneous rock music festivals held annually. The Ring festival is held in Mendig at an old airbase near Koblenz while Rock in the Park takes place in southern Germany at the Zeppelinfeld in Nuremberg. Both are usually regarded as one event with a mostly identical lineup. Combined, they are the largest music festivals held in Germany and one of the largest in the world.

Well known to opera fans is the Bayreuth Festival in the city of the same name. This festival has become a destination for lovers of the 19th-century German composer Richard Wagner.  Wagner himself conceived and promoted the idea of a special festival to showcase his works, in particular his monumental cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen and Parsifal.

Berlinale, Film Festival, Germany,

Berlinale Film Festival. Photo Courtesy of GNTO.

Germany also has a noted film festival, the Berlinale, held every February when Berlin rolls out the red carpet to host the Berlin International Film Festival. More than 400 films from all over the world are shown, along with parties and special events for film lovers. Berlinale is the most important film festival in Europe after Venice and Cannes.

This is but a sampling of German festivals. Wherever you find yourself in Germany, inquire at the local tourist office about fests.  You are sure to find one and enjoy the gemütlichkeit.

I miss them terribly, having moved to France several years ago.  Sure, there are fests here, but quite disappointing compared to the gemütlich gatherings in Germany. Time and again my husband and I have headed off to a French fest only to come home missing Germany. Most festivals here have very few food stands and of course, no beer tents.  And no music.  And, no gemütlichkeit!  I might have to join my friend Ortrud soon for a few trips back to Germany each year.

www.germany.travel

For more information on the fests mentioned see the following sites.  Some are only in German.  However, if you google the name of the town and festival, you’ll find English language sites with more information.

Bad Durkheim wine festival, Sept. 9 -13 and 16-19, 2016: www.bad-duerkheim.com

Neuss Schutzenfest, Aug. 26 -30, 2016: English city site: www.neuss.de German site: www.schuetzenfest-neuss.com

Darmstadt Heinerfest, June 30 – July 4, 2016: www.darmstadt.de and fest site in German, www.darmstaedterheinerfest.de

Griesheim: www.griesheim.de

Weimar Onion Market: www.weimar.de

www.germany.travel/onion-fair

Stuttgart Volksfest, Sept. 23 – Oct. 9, 2016: www.cannstatter-volksfest.de

www.germany.travel/stuttgart-volksfest

Stuttgart Spring Festival, April 16 – May 8, 2016: www.stuttgarter-fruehlingsfest.de

Stuttgart Wine Village, Aug 24 – Sept 4, 2016: www.stuttgarter-weindorf.de

Oktoberfest, Sept. 17 – Oct. 3, 2016: www.oktoberfest.de

Munich Strong Beer Festival:  www.destination-munich.com

Rock in the Ring, June 3 -5, 2016: www.rock-am-ring.com

Rock in the Park, June 3 – 5, 2016: www.rock-im-park.com

Bayreuth Festival, July and August, 2016. See program on this site: www.bayreuther-festspiele.de

Berlinale (Berlin Film Festival), Feb. 11 – 21, 2016:  www.berlinale.de

www.germany.travel/berlinale


Germany’s Merry Christmas: Markets and More

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My nose led me to the oven, heavenly aromas wafting from behind its doors.   Something delicious was baking and I had to have a taste.  I was in Dresden at the Striezelmarkt, the city’s Christmas market, and it was Stollen, a rich buttery cake with dried fruit, nuts and spices, turning golden inside the outdoor oven. Master Baker Joachim Winkler was rolling another batch of dough as spectators watched the creation of Dresden’s famous holiday cake. Best of all, there were free samples.

Christstollen cake from Dresden

Christstollen cake from Dresden. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

That was many years ago.  I lived in Germany then and sought out holiday markets every December. Major cities, like Dresden, usually have them in various locations. However, Christmas markets in smaller towns, while perhaps not as grand, are equally enticing. I enjoyed them all. The tradition of pre-Christmas markets originated in Germany as trade fairs in the late Middle Ages.  These days the custom has spread throughout the world with Christmas markets on the calendar in numerous countries.  But, Germany has the best.

I especially miss going to the markets late day.  In December when dark descends they are captivating scenes with twinkling lights sparkling on tinsel and gilded ornaments.  If snow falls, it’s enchanting. People wrapped in heavy winter coats and woolen scarves pack the market square to eye the merchandise displayed at stalls decorated with swaths of fir and pine. Everything from holiday decorations to handicrafts, from mittens to furry slippers, is for sale.  And, in addition to Stollen, other delicious treats stir the appetite:  grilled sausages and spicy cookies washed down with a nip of Glühwein or “glowing wine,” a mulled wine served hot. “A Christmas market without Glühwein, there is no such thing,” says my German friend Ortrud. Traditionally made with red wine, today you can find white varieties, as well as versions with liqueurs for an extra kick. It is usually served in souvenir mugs which you can purchase.

Food is my favorite part of Christmas markets.  Be it in Stuttgart, which is one of Germany’s largest markets, or Nuremberg, possibly the most romantic, or Dresden or any small town, there’s nothing quite like warming up in winter with a little Glühwein and savoring a grilled bratwurst as church bells toll and children sing carols.  Move on to another stand for more Glühwein and a healthy portion of Schupfnudeln (potato dumplings with sauerkraut) or a Linseneintopf (a thick soup of lentils) and Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes).  It’s a unique and thoroughly German culinary experience that is scrumptious.

Christmas markets are just one of many holiday traditions in Germany and with Stollen and holiday cookies topping the to-eat list, Germans tend to begin their holiday baking in late November. While everyone, not just Dresden’s residents, indulges in that luscious cake, fewer are making it at home these days.  It’s time consuming, and, as Ortrud says, the ones you can buy at the bakery are just as good.

Nuremberg - Nuremberg lebkuchen

Nuremberg Lebkuchen: Germany’s spicy treat. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Cookies are another matter, however, and we’re not referring to a few chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies.  Most Germans typically bake about eight different kinds of cookies.  Ortrud, who admits she overdoes it, makes about 15 varieties! Lebkuchen are a must.  These dark, spicy cookies which originated in Nuremberg 600 years ago are made with seven different spices. Holiday cookies are consumed throughout Advent, the pre-Christmas season that begins on the fourth Sunday before Christmas day, this year on November 29.

In addition to the delectable foods and Glühwein, there are other beverages associated with the season. Feurerzangenbowle, a flaming punch, often appears at Advent gatherings.  A pure sugar cone soaked in rum is set aflame over a punch bowl of spiced red wine.  The melted sugar and rum drip into the wine for a concoction guaranteed to warm the spirits. Of course, the Germans also have a special Christmas beer, Weihnachtsbier, a strong brew for December’s shorter days and chilly temperatures which makes its appearance at the beginning of Advent.

Almost every home has an Advent wreath of greens with four candles often placed in the center of the dining table.  On each of four Sundays leading up to Christmas, one of the candles is lit, so that by Christmas all four are burning.  The lighting ceremony is usually part of a Sunday afternoon coffee and cake ritual – a tradition with or without candles – which many Germans practice year round.  During Advent in many homes it’s an occasion to sing Christmas carols.

Advent calendars are popular with children. The original ones had little windows, one for each day before Christmas, with Biblical motifs behind them.  A new window was opened each day counting down to Christmas day.  Today, little bits of chocolate can be found behind the windows replacing the religious scenes. December 6, Saint Nicholas Day, is a big event for German children.  On the night before, they put a shoe or hang a stocking in front of their doors. If they’ve been good, the next morning it will be filled with fruits, candy and small gifts from Saint Nicholas. But, the legendary saint doesn’t make his trek from house to house alone.  Knecht Ruprecht, a sinister figure who strikes terror in any mischievous child, accompanies him.  He puts a twig or piece of coal in the shoes or stockings of naughty children.

Schlitz - Christmas market with Christmas tree and stalls in front of half-timbered houses and the largest ''advent candle'' in the world, the wrapped keep, evening

Schlitz:  Christmas market with the largest ”advent candle” in the world. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

The Alsatians take credit for the first Christmas tree, traced back to the 17th century, and the tradition quickly spread to neighboring Germany. In the not too distant past, many Germans decorated their tree with real candles, usually of beeswax. The scent of the melting wax and fresh pine is heavenly and the soft, flickering glow beats anything provided by electric lights. I went native for my first Christmas in Germany long ago and decorated with real candles, lit only on Christmas Eve.  I kept a pail of water by the tree and monitored it while the candles burned.  It was magical but it is risky. As Ortrud says, “Too many trees have burned.  We have electric lights now.” Perhaps no more real candles, but definitely real trees.  Germans are not into anything artificial.  The Nuremberg angel, Rauschgoldenengel, which can be found at Christmas markets throughout the country, often crowns the tree. Exquisite angel dolls usually have long flowing blond hair and are dressed in gowns of velvet, satin or gilded paper. According to legend, the doll was created by a heartbroken toymaker after an angel who looked like his deceased daughter appeared to him in a dream. There is a giant version that -hovers over the entrance to the Nuremberg Christmas market.

In addition to the tree, other traditional decorations are often found in German homes. The pyramid, a tall rotating candelabrum, is a favorite. Hand-carved wooden figures on multi levels are interspersed with candles.  When lit, the heat sets the various levels turning, its figures spinning round and round. Towering over the market in Dresden, in addition to a giant Christmas tree, is a gargantuan pyramid — but illuminated with electric lights.

Christmas tree decorations

Christmas tree traditions. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Woodcarvers in the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains) region make the mobile decorations, as well as other beautiful hand-carved items such as smokers (figures that blow smoke from incense cubes) and nutcrackers, which are famous throughout Germany. All of these objects are also for sale at Christmas markets.

Christmas Eve dinner is special and varies within the different regions. Carp is a favorite in many places. In Hamburg, it’s usually herring salad with fried potatoes, while in the Rhineland they dine on sausages and potato salad.  Most Germans go to church, either before or after dinner, and open presents on this special night. Come Christmas Day, in all parts of the country, many sit down to a dinner of roast goose. But, that too is changing, with turkey replacing goose in many homes and as Christmas falls during hunting season, some enjoy wild boar or venison.

The entire holiday season in Germany, from the beginning of Advent to the Feast of the Epiphany, Jan. 6, the official end of the season when most Germans take down their tree, is full of enchantment, excitement and joy.  From spicy cookies and “glowing” wine to festive markets, it is a living “old fashioned Christmas” from the pages of storybooks.  According to an old saying, “Germany without Christmas wouldn’t be Germany.”  I might add, “You haven’t experienced a real Christmas until you have experienced a German Christmas.

Highlights of the Markets

The holiday season officially gets underway on the first Sunday of Advent, Nov. 29, but many Christmas markets are open for business earlier.  Most close on Christmas Eve. Many feature more than stands selling all sorts of merchandise and edible treats. Bands, concerts, puppet shows, parades, craft demonstrations and more are additional enhancements to the festive

Highlights of the Markets

The holiday season officially gets underway on the first Sunday of Advent, Nov. 29, but many Christmas markets are open for business earlier.  And, many feature more than stands selling all sorts of merchandise and edible treats. Bands, concerts, puppet shows, parades, craft demonstrations and more are additional enhancements to the festive markets.  Don’t neglect the small towns. While many of their markets are only open on weekends, they’re usually less crowded, and equally enchanting.

Nuremberg - Christmas decorations at the Christmas market

Nuremberg Christmas decorations at the Christmas market. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

The market in Nuremberg, considered the most romantic, is the country’s most famous.  It is called the Christkindlesmarkt, or Christ child market.  During the time of Martin Luther, children received their gifts (not just small gifts as is the common practice today) on December 6th, St. Nicolas Day. Luther, however, was not a fan of venerating saints and saint’s days, so he started the practice of giving gifts on Christmas Eve, telling his children that the gifts came from “Holy Christ.”   This custom became popular with Lutheran families, and then spread to others.

At the market you’ll find the city’s tasty cookies, Lebkuchen, in every size and with different icings like chocolate, sugar or even strawberry. They are also sold in beautiful tin boxes. Another Nuremberg special now also found at many other markets is Zwetschgenmännlein (prune men), elfin figures made of dried prunes, figs and nuts. The Christkindlesmarkt is open from Nov. 27 to Dec. 24.

Dresden, where Stollen originated, hosted its first Christmas market in 1434, with its name, Striezelmarkt, referring to Stollen.  “Striezel” is a Middle High German word for the cake, and also refers to the long, oval shape of the pastry which it’s said symbolizes the infant Jesus in swaddling clothes.  Packages of original Dresdener Stollen even bear an official seal.  Numerous market stands, as well as bakeries in the city, do a booming business with the tasty cake.  The giant wooden pyramid towering over the market, listed in the Guinness Book of Records, is 45-feet tall with carved figures on its multi-levels.  The market is open from Nov. 26 to Dec. 24.

Dresden - Striezelmarkt Christmas market

Dresden “Striezelmarkt” Christmas market. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Berlin, Germany’s largest city, tops the list with the most Christmas markets – 60 in all.  Near the Potsdamer Platz market is an ice skating rink as well as the Winter World with a toboggan run. The markets are open from Nov. 23 to Dec. 27.

Originating in 1393, Frankfurt’s market is the oldest of Germany’s Christmas markets and one of the most beautiful with its historic Römer, Town Hall, as the backdrop for numerous festive stalls.  Musical events are scheduled throughout the market, including trumpet players on the balcony of St. Nikolai church.  Frankfurt’s market is scheduled from Nov. 23 to Dec. 22.

Munich - Christmas market by the city hall. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

Munich – Christmas market by the city hall. Photo courtesy of GNTO.

In Munich, the main Christmas market is at the Marienplatz with its historic town hall. Concerts from the building’s balcony are a favorite, and Bavarian products are a market specialty:  wood carvings from Oberammergau, glassware from the Bavarian Forest, Lebkuchen from Nuremberg and more. Munich’s market is open from Nov. 25 to Dec. 24.

For a complete listing of Germany’s Christmas markets visit www.germany.travel/christmas.

Wunderbar Weimar: From Bauhaus to Bach

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Goethe's Home, Weimar

Goethe House, Photo Maik Schuck, Courtesy of Thuringia Tourism Board

Weimar is a city made for walking and, if you take an impromptu stroll, at almost every turn you’ll encounter statues, museums and famous buildings linked to the Age of Enlightenment. Located centrally in the German federal state of Thuringia, this UNESCO World Heritage destination was the focal point of Weimar Classicism – a literary movement from the 19th century that included writers like Goethe, Friedrich Schiller, and Nietzsche, and later, cultural icons in music like Franz Liszt and designers and architects like Henry Van de Velde and Walter Gropius. With an astounding sixteen UNESCO designations, many within walking distance of each other, it’s practically a goldmine for anyone with artistic inclinations.

Bauhaus University main building

Bauhaus University – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

A City of Architectural Masters

Gropius, chief among the elite group of Weimar heavyweights, founded the Bauhaus school here in 1919 with the singular purpose of bringing all arts, including architecture, together.   He believed that all artists should be craftsmen; they should touch and feel materials.  After studying architecture, he became a director of craft workshops and art studios.

Haus am Horn

Haus am Horn – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

The first of the Bauhaus buildings, the Haus am Horn, was constructed in 1923 utilizing a daring functional style.  It was a test house built for Weimar’s Bauhaus exhibition with all original furnishings designed and created in Bauhaus workshops.  Designed by Georg Muche, a Bauhaus painter and teacher, it is the jewel of the school.  With simple rooms void of fancy ornamentation, the Haus am Horn’s 20-foot square living room is lit by a clerestory window. It was revolutionary for its day as it featured ultramodern conveniences like built-ins and central heating.  Even today it seems new. Located in an affluent neighborhood, the “shoebox” with its plain cube structure was understandably unpopular in the surrounding neighborhood of stately mansions.

But never mind the period unpopularity – Bauhaus went on to become one of the most influential currents in modern architecture and design. “Everyone sitting on a steel chair with a tubular frame, using an adjustable reading lamp or living in a house partly or entirely constructed from prefabricated materials is benefiting from a revolution … largely brought on by the Bauhaus,” writes Frank Whitford in “Bauhaus:  World of Art.” Today Bauhaus- designed buildings constructed almost 100 years ago blend perfectly with modern structures and demand hefty sums. Considered today to be the cradle of modern architecture, Bauhaus is already gearing up for celebrations in honor of its centenary in 2019.

Bauhaus Museum

Bauhaus Museum – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

The Haus am Horn can still be visited today but alas, it is no longer furnished. However, many of the furnishings and crafts created by Gropius and his masters from the school can be viewed at the Bauhaus Museum located in an 18th century pink stucco building. The objects illustrate the multifarious nature of the school’s work in Weimar.

A precursor to Gropius who also left his mark in Weimar is Henry van de Velde, a Belgian architect and designer considered a pioneer of modernity.  It was his arts and crafts seminar in Weimar in 1902 that Gropius later developed into Bauhaus.  House Hohe Pappeln, a country house for his family, is reminiscent of a ship on its side. The garden and the family’s everyday living area with furniture designed by Van de Velde are well worth a visit.

van de Velde

Van de Velde’s Grand Ducal Saxon School of Applied Arts – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

Among Van de Velde’s most successful creations are the interior design and furnishings of Weimar’s Nietzsche Archive.  The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche spent the last years of his life in Weimar and many rooms of the building have been completely preserved as an artistic masterpiece.

Nietzsche, Archiv

Nietzsche Archive – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

A City of Renowned Composers

The composer Franz Liszt also lived for a time in Weimar.  The home where he resided and gave piano lessons is now a museum with both a Bechstein grand piano and an Ibach piano.  A special exhibit allows visitors to experience Liszt’s works both visually and acoustically.

Liszt's House

Liszt’s House – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

Another famous composer you may recognize, Johann Sebastian Bach, lived in Weimar from 1708 until 1717. He was the court’s organist and later concert master. Two of his sons were born in the city.  Bach is commemorated with a statue on the Platz der Demokratie.

A City of Literary Masters

Literary masterpieces and those who created them draw many visitors to Weimar. What Stratford-on-Avon is to Shakespeare, Weimar is to Goethe and Schiller, Germany’s two most famous poets and writers.

Goethe and Schiller

Goethe and Schiller – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lived in Weimar and the Goethe Haus, where he resided for 42 years, is open to visitors. Goethe studied the effects of color on human beings and published a 1,400 page book on the topic.  The furnishings and colors of the rooms (light green, vivid red, turquoise) are original and reveal surprising facts about the literary genius. He was also a collector of minerals.  His collection included some 1,800 stones – only a fraction of which are on display in the house. The study where he penned Faust and other immortal works, and the bedroom where he died, are preserved in their original state.

Weimar Goethe Haus

Goethe Haus, Photo Maik Schuck, Courtesy of Thuringia Tourism Board

Goethe was also intrigued by landscape and in 1778 helped lay out the city’s beautiful Park on the Ilm, 150 acres in classic English style.  It is a delight of thickets, meadows, and winding brooks spanned by wooden bridges.  The Garden House where Goethe spent his summers, and enjoyed many an intimate rendezvous, is open to visit. Goethe’s passions were legendary.  He wrote 1,700 love letters to his favorite female companion, Charlotte von Stein. His works, and those of his friend, Friedrich Schiller, fostered the theatrical style known as Weimar Classicism.

Park an der Ilm, Goethe’s Garden House, Weimar - Photo Courtesy of Thuringia Tourism

Park an der Ilm – Photo Courtesy of Thuringia Tourism Board

Schiller’s house in Weimar is another site to visit. The dramatist bought the house in 1802 for “all the money I had and could somehow scratch together.” It is in the late Baroque style with a bright yellow façade.  Schiller spent only eight years in Weimar, and died in his study in the house which includes his deathbed and the desk where he wrote “Wilhelm Tell” and other noted works. A museum behind the house displays more momentos.

Schiller House Weimar

Schiller House,  Photo Guido Werner, Courtesy of Thuringia Tourism Board

Works by both Schiller and Goethe are stored in the Duchess Anna Amalia Library, a Weimar must see.  Some 50,000 books as well as the upper portion of the library were destroyed by fire in 2004.  Miraculously the building has been restored, 62,000 damaged books salvaged, and 11,000 replacement volumes purchased at auctions.  The Rococo Hall – all in white with gilded galleries, paintings, busts of poets and lined with shelves of books – is dazzling.

In front of the stately Neo-Classical National Theater, stands Weimar’s most famous monument:  a statue of Goethe and Schiller.  Goethe has his hands on his young friend’s shoulder.  Both hold a laurel wreath to symbolize their shared fame.  It’s a favorite place for a Weimar selfie.

Deutsches Nationaltheater Weimar

Deutsches Nationaltheater – Photo Courtesy of Weimar, GmbH.

As Goethe once said of Weimar, “Where else can you find so many good things in one spot?”  It is indeed wunderbar.

www.weimar.de

www.visit-thuringia.com

 

Where to Stay:

Hotel Elephant – Perfect location on the market square and near all the sights.  Enjoy luxury and elegance at this hotel which has been a Weimar favorite for some 300 years. Markt 19, Weimar; + 49 364 380 20; www.hotelelephantweimar.com

Dorint Am Goethepark Weimar – Excellent location near the Goethe House, comfortable rooms, wellness amenities. Beethovenplatz 1-2, Weimar; + 49 364 387 20; www.hotel-weimar.dorint.com/de/

Hotel Anna AmaliaFamily-run, centrally located hotel with a Mediterranean flair commemorating Goethe’s voyage to Italy. Geleitstrasse 8 – 12, Weimar; + 49 364 349 560; www.hotel-anna-amalia.de/en/

Where to Eat:

Residenz-Café – A Weimar favorite serving everything from copious breakfast specials to pastas and hearty German meals, including Thuringia bratwurst. 4 Grüner Markt, Weimar; + 49 364 359 408; www.residenz-cafe.de

joHanns Hof – Regional and seasonal specials. Features a large selection of wines from the Saale-Unstrut, Germany’s smallest vineyard known for dry, white wines. Scherfgasse 1, Weimar; + 49 364 349 3617; www.johannshof-weimar.de

Gasthaus zum Weissen Schwan – Goethe is said to have frequented this traditional guest house noted for up market regional favorites.  Frauentorstrasse 23, Weimar; + 49 364 390 8751; www.weisserschwan.de/

 What to Do:

Take a Bauhaus Walking Tour and visit historic Bauhaus sites with a student guide (all of whom are prospective architects, civil engineers, cultural scholars or artists). Geschwistre – Scholl – Straße 6a, Weimar; www.uni-weimar.de

Purchase a Weimar Card for admission to nearly all Weimar museums and free rides on the city’s public transport system. Card also includes an iGuide. Information on the card and much more on Weimar at www.weimar.de

Attend the 300-year-old Weimar Onion Market (Oct. 7 – 9, 2016) in honor of the prosaic vegetable.  Goethe was an onion fan who even decorated his home and study with onions.

Skiing St. Moritz, Switzerland

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St. Mortiz Switzerland, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

St. Mortiz Switzerland, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

St. Moritz is class.  Five-star hotels, designer boutiques, haute cuisine and elegant cafes beckon movie stars, royalty and jet-setters. Many arrive at the nearby airport in their private jets. Claudia Schiffer, Liz Hurley, Kate Moss and Robert De Niro are said to be regulars at the King’s Club, the town’s “in” celebrity haunt. But St. Moritz is also serious sports – downhill and cross-country skiing, ski jumping, snowshoeing, tobogganing, ice skating, curling, snow kiting, horseracing and polo on a frozen lake, mountain hiking in both winter and summer, plus a host of other warm weather activities.  Not all who come to enjoy these activities are super rich.  As one ski instructor said, “Once you’ve skied its slopes, you realize there’s more to St. Moritz than ritz.”

There are two kinds of guests who frequent St. Moritz, mountain guide Christine Salis told me last winter.  “Some love glamour, expensive places, champagne, caviar… but others don’t show it off.  And, there are plenty of simple people, lots of them Swiss, who rent an apartment and cook for themselves.  “I am for nature”, she added, and don’t need luxury.”

Nature and Bird Watching in St. Moritz

People Come to St. Mortiz for the Nature, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

I neither needed nor could afford luxury during previous visits to St. Moritz. Last year I spent a week at Club Med there where I met many devoted fans of the resort. Colette, from France, has been a St. Moritz regular for 40 years. Downhill skiing is now too fast for her, she said, so she skis cross-country and snowshoes.  Another cross country skier, who has been visiting for 20 years, called St. Moritz “the best in Europe” for that sport. “The Swiss keep the trails in beautiful condition.”  Gerlinde from Germany comes for the downhill skiing.  “‘There are few beginners on the slopes which are very well groomed; and few young, crazy snow boarders,” she said.   Her son Tobias, who skied with the expert class at Club Med, finds the slopes “well maintained, not so crowded, with vast off-piste possibilities.”

I agree with all of the above and have always been passionate about this mountain paradise.   St. Moritz is divided into two parts:  St. Moritz Bad, the original spa center of mineral springs which is now a cluster of high rises, and St. Moritz Dorf, the main town with the swish hotels and shops. The two are about a mile apart.

The mountains offer four ski areas, but Corviglia and Corvatsch are the favorites.  From St. Moritz Dorf, a mountain train chugs to a mid station and the slopes of Corviglia. From there a variety of runs radiate in all directions, and the Piz Nair cable car soars to the highest point on the mountain (at 10,000+ ft). From St. Moritz Bad, a cable car ascends to the Signal chairlift. Slopes there connect to those radiating from the Corviglia hub.

Downhill Skiers in St. Moritz

Downhill Skiers in St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

Corvatsch, the other major ski area, is a short bus ride down the valley from either part of St. Moritz with skiing and snowboarding for all levels, from beginner trails to long, fast intermediate trails. Challenging steep descents, both on and off piste, keep experts happy. On previous visits to St. Moritz when snow was scarce I skied Corvatsch as its slopes are at a higher elevation, hence better snow.  It even has a glacier with year-round snow cover.

Cross Country Skier on Ski Trail in St. Moritz

Cross Country Skier on Ski Trails in St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Struggler

Before my Club Med week, I spent a few days devoted to other activities, namely hiking and snowshoeing. Snowshoeing has surged in popularity in recent years and I was eager to give it a try.  It’s easy and a fabulous way to experience nature and get great exercise; and there’s no waiting in lift lines.  Our guide Christine drove outside of town to an area near the bottom of the Morteratsch glacier for our trek.  I followed her through a valley of deep snow, trying to stay in her tracks.  It was hard to concentrate on my feet when I wanted to focus on the fantastic mountains surrounding us in this white paradise. The squeaks of the snowshoes on the snow reminded me to look down.  It was strenuous, and I was slow. We never made it to the glacier terminus, but it was a rewarding experience nonetheless.

Snow Walking and Shoeing in St. Mortiz

Walking the Slopes in St. Mortiz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

Christine made it fascinating, frequently stopping to point out curiosities of nature.  I learned about rabbit footprints.  The big footprint (rear leg) precedes the smaller front print when the rabbit hops.  “They have three to four litters per year,” she said.  Mother rabbits hide each baby in a different place as a safety measure against predators, she explained.  She told me about the different types of pine trees, and the other animals in this habitat:  deer, marmots and chamois.

Christine also guided me at lunch. We enjoyed a welcome break at the Morteratsch Hotel Restaurant, my chance to try some Engadin specials.  She recommended Veltliner Pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta, or Bundner Capuns, dumplings wrapped in chard. I went for the former, smothered in a rich cheese sauce. Hearty fare, but I felt I had earned it.  She ordered the latter and let me taste—yummy.

Snow Shoe Trekking in St. Moritz

Snow Shoe Trekking in St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

The trek with Christine was not on a prepared track although those abound around St. Moritz and the going will be a lot easier.  For our afternoon outing we rode the Muottas Muragl cable car, located outside of town.  From the top (8,058 feet), you can soar down a four-kilometer long toboggan run, follow a snowshoe trail or saunter along the high mountain Philosopher’s Path.  You will not need quotations from famous philosophers to get inspired by the surrounding natural magnificence, but signs along the route post gems of wisdom (in three languages) from the likes of Thomas Mann,  Friedrich Nietzsche, Hermann Hesse … many of whom visited Engadin. There are benches along the route, too, perfect for taking a break amidst the splendor.  We passed a group who popped a champagne cork to toast the mountains or perhaps the philosophers, who knows.   Some lounged in the sun.  Others took selfies.

There are many more splendid winter walking opportunities around St. Moritz and the three lakes in the Engadin Valley.  St. Moritz’s frozen lake, the St. Moritzersee, offers a bonanza of winter action on the ice, including horseracing, polo, golf, a cross-country race and cricket.   During my visit I watched both a daytime polo match and a nighttime trotting race, fun events on the lake with enthusiastic crowds.

Winter Polo in St. Moriz

Winter Polo in St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

Johannes Badrutt, whose name still graces one of the most famous five-star hotels, is credited with St. Moritz’s winter fame. In September 1864 he invited four summer visitors from Britain to visit in winter, and bet that if they didn’t like it, he’d pay their travel costs.  If they liked it, they’d be guests at his hotel and could stay as long as they liked. Badrutt, a crafty Swiss, figured even if he lost his bet, the guests’ bar bill would cover his costs.  The group came at Christmas, stayed until Easter, and are said to be the first winter tourists in the Alps.

St. Moritz’s popularity as a summer health resort is much, much older, however. Since 1500 BC, when the Druidic Celts passed through, people have been making a pilgrimage here to take the healing waters from its mineral springs. The Romans had a settlement in St. Moritz, and there is a historical reference to the town in 1139.  The Renaissance physician and alchemist Paracelsus described the health-giving properties of the St. Moritz springs back in 1537.  My husband and I spent several summer days in St. Moritz a few years ago.  After a strenuous bike ride in the nearby mountains, we enjoyed a mountain hike, a leisurely bike ride around neighboring lakes and a day trip to a nearby valley. St. Moritz in summer is a perfect base for outdoor activities in this dazzling region.

Mountain Vistas during Apres Ski in St. Moritz

Apres Ski St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

The town is a hiker’s paradise with all types of hikes possible, from leisurely strolls to a rock climbing adventure.  You can ride a cable car to mountain peaks, such as Piz Nair, Corvatsch and Diavolezza, each at an altitude of more than 10,000 feet, and set off on trails from the top. You can also just follow a path from the town up into the mountains.  The Schellenvrsil Trail, a short 45-minute walk, leads to Heidi’s hut, a hut used for filming a movie about the fictional Heidi. In addition to hiking and biking, today’s summer visitors can sail, windsurf, kite surf, fish, in line skate, ride horses, paraglide, hang glide and even go canyoning or rafting.

St. Moritz is in the Swiss canton of Grisons (Graubünden) where the native language is Romansh, a 2,000-year-old language.  It developed from the Latin spoken by the Romans and the Rhaetian language of the Engadin valley in this part of the country. Today some 50,000 Swiss, with their own culture, stories and songs, speak the language. Most, however, speak German as well and English is widely spoken.

Combine a visit to St. Moritz with an unforgettable train ride on Switzerland’s legendary Glacier Express.   The town can be the beginning or end of this journey which winds its way through stupendous scenery.   I relished this experience years ago.  This time I traveled to the resort on regular trains and also enjoyed some great views – as well as the country’s excellent rail system.  Train travel in Switzerland is the best:  helpful personnel, trains on time — not to mention the views.

By the Lake in St. Moritz

By the Lake in St. Moritz, Photo Courtesy of ND Strupler

“St Moritz has always had a reputation as a rich and elegant resort yet it’s no more expensive than any other Swiss resort,” a ski instructor once told me. It also attracts sports enthusiasts who appreciate its top rate facilities and stunning mountain setting. Count me among the fans.

 

The country code for Switzerland is 41 and the local area code is 81.

Where to Stay:

Badrutt’s Palace – A St. Moritz landmark dating back to 1896.  The epitome in luxury and elegance with stunning mountain views. Via Serlas 27, St. Moritz, +41 81 837 1000;  www.badruttspalace.com

Hotel Sonne – Simple, reasonable hotel in a good location.  The restaurant features both Swiss and Italian specialties.  Via Sela 11, St. Moritz, +41 81 838 5959; www.sonne-stmoritz.ch

Hotel Laudinella – Comfortable hotel with six different restaurants, including those focused on Thai, Italian and Japanese cuisine. Via Tegiatscha 17, St. Moritz-Bad, +41 81 836 0000;  www.laudinella.ch

 

Where to Eat:

Chesa Chantarella – on the slopes at Salastrains, this trendy Italian eatery has a terrace that’s  great for people watching.  Many of St Moritz’s non-skiers like to hang out at chic mountain restaurants such as this one and sip champagne while enjoying the scenery.  Via Salastrains 10, St Moritz, +41 81 833 33 55; www.chesa-chantarella.com/en

Mulo’s Restaurant and Bar – A new restaurant with a talented young chef who offers a variety of both meat and fish favorites, as well as pasta and more.  Terrace overlooking the lake.  Via dal Bagn 20, St. Moritz, +41 81 834 1010;  www.mulos-stmoritz.ch

Veltlinerkeller – A charming restaurant in a small hotel with good local specials on the menu.  Via dal Bagn 11, St. Moritz, +41 81 833 4009;  www.veltlinerkeller-stmoritz.ch

 

Where to Drink:

Stubli Bar – in the Schweizerhof Hotel, this is a favorite with locals.  Live music, too.  Via dal Bagn 20, St. Moritz, +41 81 834 0707; www.schweizerhofstmoritz.ch/en/party-bars-and-nightlife/bars

La Baracca –  cozy bar and restaurant with a lively atmosphere.  Popular for après-ski. Via San Gian / Signalbahn, St. Moritz, + 41 79 270 0775

 

What to Do:

Toboggan the Legendary Cresta Run – Hurtle around 10 corners head first at speeds up to 55 mph.  For men and members only, but temporary membership is available.  www.cresta-run.com

St. Moritz- Celerina Olympic Bob Run – For the ultimate thrill, check out this mile long ice channel that slices 19 hair raising turns down the mountainside to the village of Celerina. You can watch teams practice as they fly by at 90 mph or pay to have a guided race of your own.  250 Swiss francs for a 1.20 minute ride. Plazza Gunter Sachs, Postfach 283, St. Moritz, +41 81 8300 200; www.olympia-bobrun.ch

Take Tea at Conditorei Hanselmann –  Famous for their Swiss pastry and patronized by the cognoscenti.  Order a slice of the Engadin Walnut Tart, a sinful local specialty filled with cream, caramel and chunky walnuts. Via Maistra 8, St. Moritz, +41 81 833 38 64; www.hanselmann.ch

Segantini Museum – Giovanni Segantini (1858–1899) is considered an important artist in the realm of realistic symbolism who breathed new life into Alpine painting in the late 19th century. www.segantini-museum.ch

Hire a Guide – Join a guided tour or hire your own private guide to explore the mountains in winter or summer.  Guides can be arranged through the tourist office. www.engadin.stmoritz.ch

Tip from the Author:  Take advantage of the Hotel Ski Pass for 35 Swiss francs per day when booking more than one night at a participating hotel. Offer valid throughout the winter season 2016-2017.  Even if you don’t ski, use the pass to ride to the mountaintops for scenery and high altitude hikes. www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/winter/en/hotel-and-skipass

Intriguing and Incredible India

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In April I joined a small group of German tourists (12) on a 15-day tour of northern India and Kashmir.  An ad campaign for the destination touts the country as “Incredible India.”  It is – as well as intriguing.  Following are some aspects I found incredibly intriguing during my travels.

Incredible India

Holy men often pose near tourist sites, hoping for a donation.              Photo by Leah Larkin

 

PEOPLE:  My favorite part of India. They are the friendliest, kindest, gentlest, most open and talkative folk.  Indians often approach and start a conversation.  Where are you from? Do you like India? They often ask to have their photo taken with you, and they eagerly pose for photos.   On a train, they share their food.  In Kashmir, I was invited to join a picnic. When I had a nasty crash during one of my solitary escapades in the boondocks of Kashmir, two young men came to my aid, offering comfort and a ride.

My seat mates on a train ride to Agra were delightful:  A retired gentleman and a recently-married young woman, Shrudi, who has become a friend on Facebook.  We chatted non-stop.   I learned a lot about India.

Poverty in the country is overwhelming and there are many beggars.  At the tourist sites, the souvenir sales crew does pester.  But, if you reply with a firm NO, they usually back off.  Many have mastered salesmanship.  “You look like a movie star,” a crafty fellow at the Khajuraho temple known for its erotic sculptures told me.  My hair was a disaster.  I was hot, sweaty, tired and felt like an ancient hag. He won.  I bought the bronze bowl with the sexy etchings which I really did not want, but now I am glad I have this bizarre treasure which brings back fun memories.

Despite the body-to-body throngs in many places, I felt safe in India.  I was careful and cautious with my purse and camera, but never felt that someone would accost me and grab my valuables.

Many of my German travel companions were on their fourth or fifth trip to India. “People” is one of the major reasons they keep returning to India, they said.  “The people are so friendly.  They have so little but they seem satisfied.  They have lebensfreude (joie de vivre, zest for life).  “It fascinates me,” observed one of them.

Incredible India

Women construction workers in Northern India.
Photo by Leah Larkin

MARRIAGE:  Some seventy percent of marriages in India are arranged.  Shrudi, 27, showed me pictures on her phone of her December wedding with 1,000 guests in attendance.  She had spent a mere 10-minutes with her husband-to-be beforehand.  They asked each other questions about what kind of life they wanted and what they wanted in a mate.  His answers matched her desires.  She is obviously happy with her new life and man, and glowed when talking about him.   She said some of her friends had married for “love,” but she preferred to honor her parents’ wishes and let them find her a husband.  For India, she married late, but “I told my father not to find me a husband until I finished school,” she explained.

As is the custom in India, she now lives with her husband and his mother.  Once married, daughters live with their husband and in-laws.  This is like old age insurance for the parents, assuring that they will always be taken care of.  However, problems between daughters-in-law and mothers-in-law are legendary and the brunt of numerous jokes.

Shrudi has no problems with her mother-in-law, but, unlike most married women in India, she is not in the kitchen cooking with her mother-in-law all day. She has a career and works in a bank.  According to one of our guides, Rajesh, 70 percent of Indian women are housewives who spend six hours per day in food preparation.  Indian food is labor intensive.

My other train companion had two daughters, both married.  He had a hard time finding a husband for one of the two as she is overweight.  Fortunately she found a husband on her own.

incredible india

Costumed bridegroom at a country wedding.
Photo by Leah Larkin

COWS:  Yes, they are sacred and they are everywhere — and perhaps not too bright.  Now I understand the German expression:  blöde Kuh (stupid cow).  Hindus, 80 percent of the Indian population, are vegetarians.  Cows are never slaughtered.  Thanks to their milk, they are viewed as maternal figures, and are raised for dairy products, as well as plowing the fields.  Cow manure is used as fertilizer and fuel.

So, what happens when a cow is too old to give milk or work the fields?  The beasts are turned loose and wander everywhere freely, often in the thick of roads clogged with cars, trucks, rickshaws, motorcycles, tuk-tuks. Horns blast.  Drivers shout. The gentle beasts are oblivious to all.  Traffic comes to a standstill.  No one wants to hit a cow.  There are other places to roam, but India’s cows seem to prefer to be in the midst of the melee.

They thrive on garbage, and there is plenty in India.  In Varanasi where we witnessed numerous cremations on the banks of the Ganges, cows – and dogs — munched on the debris around the places where bodies had been burned.

Some lucky cows end up in cow retirement centers, Gaushalas.   India has 3,000 of these, but, according to animal husbandry statistics:  45,150,000 cows.  Most meander ubiquitously throughout the cities and countryside.

Being an animal lover, I wanted to pet the poor fellows.  The guide warned:  Don’t touch.  If hungry, they might be mean and buck with their horns, he said.  I doubt the ones I saw would have had the energy.  I obeyed nonetheless.

incredible india

This lucky cow has an owner who was happy to pose for a photo.
Photo by Leah Larkin

TRAFFIC:  Cows do complicate the snarling masses of all sorts of vehicles as named above, plus pedestrians are often in the midst.  How could anyone even think of driving in this madness?  The noise is more than incredible. Every driver seems to have his hand plastered on his horn.  Who is honking at whom?   No way to know.  Who has the right of way, other than the bovines?  Survival of the fittest.  Just plunge ahead and hope for the best.

Hats off to the drivers.  We each had a rickshaw for our ride from the hotel to the riverbank in Varanasi.  The traffic was abominable, but my skillful rickshaw driver kept his cool, pedaling his vehicle with aplomb, weaving around cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. There were many close calls, making the ride more thrilling than the wildest of roller coasters.

We had frequent long journeys on a comfortable, roomy bus.  In India, the bus driver is in a separate glass compartment with his assistant sitting next to him.  The assistant is de rigueur.  Four eyes are needed to watch ahead and to the sides for all-too-frequent obstacles.  Our bus assistant also served bottled water, and, in our case, often stopped to purchase bananas – lunch on most days.

We rode on rutted roads through the countryside and small villages and on super highways as good as any in the developed world.

A guide Alok told us there are 2,000 traffic deaths per day in India.  Many drive without a driver’s license, but a license can be purchased – no test required.

Incfredible India

India may have more homeless dogs than homeless cows.
Photo by Leah Larkin

DOGS:  There may be as many homeless dogs as there are cows.  These canines are not pets, never were.  They all are similar in appearance: medium size, short, beige/ tan fur.  They wander freely everywhere, but most seem to have enough sense to stay away from auto traffic.  They, too, thrive on garbage. None I saw looked malnourished, and they were not vicious.  Yet I resisted the urge to pet.  Unlike the docile cows, I feared one could bite.  After experiencing India’s stray dogs, I came across this article, “The World is Full of Dogs without Collars”  – it’s an interesting read for animal people.

What about cats?  I only saw two during the entire trip.  No wonder. With all those hungry dogs, they would end up as dog food.

incredible india

Bathers at the sacred Ganges.
Photo by Leah Larkin

CONTRASTS:  The poverty, filth, garbage, noise and pollution are all mind-boggling. On our last day, Alok wanted us to see the new state-of-the art metro in Delhi.  It, too, was mind-boggling:  futuristic, spotless, sleek, quiet, fast.

Intriguing.  Incredible.  That’s India.

For more information on traveling in India see http://incredibleindia.org/

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Maritime Flair in Hamburg

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Fish, and the waters where they swim, both come to mind when I think of Hamburg, Germany’s second largest city and largest port.  Although the waters of the North Sea are 65 miles from this maritime city, it is water that imbues the city with a distinctive, enticing flair. It seems water is seldom out of sight or sound – the shrill caw of seagulls, the groaning of ship horns, sailboat spinnakers ballooning on lakes where swans glide.  Hamburg is set around the shores of two lakes, the Binnenalster (inner Alster) and Aussenalster (outer Alster). Three rivers, the Elbe, the Alster and the Bille, traverse the city, as well as narrow canals, more than in Venice. And bridges – Hamburg has more than any city in the world. It makes for picture postcard scenes and photo opps around every corner.

Hamburg

Elbphilharmonie
Photo By Jörg Modrow

There are fabulous restaurants where fish (and more) is the highlight of the menu. With 10 Michelin-starred restaurants and a total of 15 stars, Hamburg is one of Germany’s culinary capitals. The sizzling food scene is dynamic and innovative. In addition to savoring the freshest of fish, it was the selling of fish that captivated me on a recent visit. The Sunday morning fish market with its whacky auction is raucous entertainment that’s not to be missed. Fish vendors tear a sheet of white butcher paper off a roll, lay it across one arm, and shout out the names of their bounty:  perch, halibut, eel.  Each specimen is held high with a dramatic flourish for all to admire, then slapped down on the paper. The boisterous salesmen roar like carnival barkers, crack jokes and poke fun with the audience – all in hopes of a better price. They may even toss a slimy fish or two to the crowd.

The Fish Market dates back to 1703 when fishermen petitioned the city to sell their catches on Sundays. The clergy would have none of it, fearing the market would conflict with religious services. A compromise was reached whereby the market could open at dawn, but must close at 9:30 a.m. to give citizens ample time for church. This unique Sunday morning ritual from 5 am to 9.30 (from 7a.m. in winter) is now much more than fish. Fresh fruit and produce, candy, pastries and Hamburg’s famous fish sandwiches are on sale at the outdoor market. Merchants hawk handicrafts, pots and pans, clothing, jewelry, flowers and even a few antiques. It’s THE place to end a long Saturday night of merry making – and to continue dancing in the nearby historic Fish Market Auction Hall if so inclined. There are picnic tables and food stands along the walls.  Ompah music blares from a band. It may be early morning but it’s a party like no other.

Hamburg

Alsterarkaden Shopping

The Fish Market represents the gritty, maritime side of Hamburg but there is another side: a refined, sophisticated metropolis. Hamburg is one of Germany’s wealthiest cities and was ranked amongst the 10 most livable cities in the world by a noted global livability ranking. It’s one of Germany’s greenest cities with sprawling parkland. Walking and bike paths parallel its lake shores. Furriers, jewelers, and high-fashion boutiques line the Neuer Jungfernstieg, an elegant street along the Alster. “Hamburg has style and elegance. It’s where young, well-educated Germans want to live. There are lots of restaurants, culture, and the water. I love it.  It’s my favorite German city,” says my friend Gerlinde who lives south in Stuttgart.

More and more tourists are discovering the city’s charms. Soon to attract even more is the Elbphilharmonie Hamburg, a cultural landmark to rival the concert halls of Los Angeles, Sydney and Bilbao with its spectacular design by architects Herzog & de Meuron. The Grand Hall, the largest of its three concert halls, places the orchestra in the center surrounded by terraced seating for 2,100. Opening in January 2017, the Elbphilharmonie is part of a stunning complex in HafenCity, a 400-acre urban development project that includes a 250-room luxury hotel. The former docklands on the Elbe have been transformed into a commercial, residential and recreational district known for alluring architecture with mesmerizing glass towers.

Hamburg

Evening in Speicherstadt
Photo By Andreas Vallbracht

 

Speicherstadt, a picturesque area of canals with 17 old red brick warehouses, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Hamburg symbol. The seven-story tall buildings were built at the turn of the last century with entrances from both water and land. Some are still used to store spices, carpets, and other goods while others house museums.

Train buffs will love Miniatur Wunderland with the largest model railway system in the world:  930 trains with nearly 14,450 railway wagons, plus hundreds of thousands of trees, figures, buildings and bridges. In this Lilliputian world, tiny locomotives race by mountains, forests, coasts and cities.

On the southeastern edge of the port is another fascinating museum: BallinStadt, the emigration museum. Between 1850 and 1939, more than five million people boarded ships in Hamburg, setting off for a new life in a new world. The museum features an interactive exhibition across three museum halls providing an insight into their lives and dreams, and the historic background of their emigration.

St. Pauli Beatles Square

St. Pauli Beatles Square
Photo by Martin Brinckmann

St. Pauli, with its notorious Reeperbahn known as “the sinful mile,” is the city’s red light and entertainment district where bars and restaurants abound.  It was originally a hangout for sailors but today tourists are among those who ogle the scantily clad women posing in the windows waiting to be chosen. In the ‘60s the Beatles lived here and played in several clubs. Lennon later stated that although he was born in Liverpool, he felt he had grown up in Hamburg.

Acclaimed eateries are found throughout the city’s different districts where young chefs offer avant-garde concepts. The trend is for simplicity with the focus on artisan food from regional, eco-friendly sources. New on the seafood scene is the Boathouse, located on a canal, and offering fine dining with a casual ambience. Many dishes are shared family style and the restaurant even rents boats. Kevin Fehling’s The Table (three Michelin stars) accommodates just 20 guests who sit around an open kitchen savoring his modern interpretations of classical dishes. Food trucks are an interesting addition to the culinary scene. In the Altona district gourmet trucks as well as mobile food booths offer homemade regional specialties. Robert Wullopf and Hagen Schäfer, two chefs who run the restaurant Lokal1 in the Schanzenviertel district, have a bright green gourmet truck often seen at local markets.

Hamburg

Kevin Fehling
Photo Courtesy of Kevin Fehling

Thanks to the city’s synergy with water, fish creations are high on the list of local specials. Finkenwerder Scholle, pan-fried plaice with bacon bits and fried potatoes, is delicious and eel and herring are big, with numerous varieties of the latter.  Fischbrötchen, a roll with raw or fried fish inside, is a popular street food.  Aalsuppe, which many think means eel soup, is traditional fare.  Aal is actually an old Saxon word meaning “everything,” but not necessarily eel. However, today eel is often included as most diners expect it. My favorite German dessert, Rote Grütze, hails from Hamburg.  This yummy summer pudding is made from fresh berries and is usually served with cream.

And let’s not forget hamburgers. There are many theories on the origin of hamburgers, the name for the citizens of Hamburg, but most trace the burger back to Hamburg. Emigrants on board those ships sailing to American were said to have relished a wheat bun stuffed with roast meat. Once on land they continued to enjoy the treat, but substituted ground meat for the roasted variety.  In Hamburg, ground meat patties known as Frikadelle are considered the precursor of the hamburger. They are made from a mixture of ground beef, soaked bread, egg and chopped onion. American style hamburgers are popular in the city’s numerous burger bars where you can find all manner of creative variations.

Hamburg

Craft Beers at Retail

How about a beer with that burger? Hamburg’s beer culture is undergoing a renaissance with craft beers now the trend. Local microbreweries are brewing tasty varieties, from pale ales to stout. Beer was the beverage of choice in the Middle Ages when Hamburg had more than 600 breweries.

After a beer and burger lunch, indulge in that delightful German afternoon ritual, Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). Hamburg hosts an exciting scene of young gourmet coffee roasters and many comfy cafes. Coffee, which played an important role in the history of the port city, is one of the reasons for building all those warehouses in Speicherstadt.

“Hamburg is fantastic. It has a very different flair. It is not like other parts of Germany,” said friend Ortrud who comes from Neuss in northern Germany. “The water, the big ships – all make a very special impression.” Plus, that rollicking fish market.

www.hamburg-travel.com

www.marketing.hamburg.de

 

hamburg

Miniatur Wunderland
Photo Courtesy of Minatur Wunderland

The area code for Germany is 49. 

The city code for Hamburg is 40.

Where to Stay:

Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten – Luxurious five-star hotel on the Inner Alster Lake which is ranked among Europe’s Grand Hotels for over 110 years. Conveniently located for shopping and sightseeing. Its restaurant Haerlin has two Michelin stars.  Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14,

+49 40 3494 3152; www.fairmont.com

Hotel Baseler Hof – Private, family-owned design hotel in the heart of the city. Shopping arcades and major attractions within walking distance. Esplanade 11, +49 40 359 060; www.baselerhof.de

The George – a British themed design hotel in the party district of St. Pauli.  Its popular bar offers a 60page drink menu. The banks of the nearby Aussenalster Lake offer peaceful tree-lined paths for joggers and strollers. Barcastrasse 3, +49 40 2800 300; www.thegeorge-hotel.de.

 

Where to Eat:

Fischereihafen – a Hamburg institution where locals and celebrities alike appreciate typical regional dishes as well as modern creations. Summer dining on the terrace with views of the busy port and passing ships is the perfect ambience for a tasty fish such as the house specialty, “North Sea turbot with Pommery mustard sauce.” Große Elbstraße 143 (Altona), + 49 40 381 816; www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de

Jellyfish – one of Hamburg’s best seafood restaurants supporting sustainable fishing and using solely wild and line-caught fish. It has won several awards for its innovative cuisine. Weidenalle 2, (Eimsbüttel), +49 40 410 5414; www.jellyfish-restaurant.de

Altes Mädchen – an old brewery with 60 different kinds of craft beer. Burgers, sandwiches and more. Take a guided tour to learn more about beer production. Lagerstraße 28b (Schanzenviertel), +49 40 8007 7750; www.altes-maedchen.de

Lokal 1 – Both a restaurant and deli whose owners/chefs offer delicious cuisine prepared with local ingredients and products from farms in the surrounding area where they respect and encourage animal welfare. Kampstraße 25-27 (Schanzenviertel), +49 40 4922 2266; www.lokal1.com

 

What to Do:

Christmas Markets – Hamburg has many throughout the city. They’re now open and close on December 30.

A boat ride is a must in this waterside metropolis and the choices are overwhelming – harbor excursions past docks and container terminals, river cruises, trips to fishing villages, islands and/or beach resorts, rides on ferries, barges, or do-it-yourself paddle boats.

Kunsthalle  Hamburg – The city’s art museum reflects 700 years of works that offer visitors a tour through European art history from the Middle Ages to the present. Glockengießerwall; www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de

Visit Hamburg’s Rathaus (City Hall), the city’s neo-renaissance architectural centerpiece. Hourly tours are available in English. 1 Rathausmarkt;  www.hamburg-travel.com

Take TeaLike coffee, tea has figured in the port city’s past, often stored in those warehouses before being sent on to cities throughout Europe. Messmer Momentum is both a tea house and museum. The sleek café overlooks a canal. Am Kaiserkai 10;  www.messer-momentum.de

 

The post Maritime Flair in Hamburg appeared first on Travel Squire.

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